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  • rossi

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    I had some as well. I used that brass for Cast Bullet Reduced Loads. I guess seeing the post from Snipers Hide, a lot of folks don't use it for full loads. I got that brass years ago on the cheap $ide.
     

    GRENUG

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    Does anyone know what brand 9mm brass with the headstamp "SCI" at the top and "9mm" at the bottom would be?
     

    RobertTaylor

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    I've got an issue I can't seem to figure out.
    I'm having huge variations in velocity with my 5.56 reloads.
    I've used starline, lake city, and wolf brass.
    I weigh every charge, every charge is identical. All bullets seated to the same depth. Nothing weird going on. I've done everything I know of to make this as consistent as possible. I'm still getting 100 to 150 FPS variations in velocity.
    I know it isnt my chronograph, I've ran some factory ammo over it, much much more consistent.
    Any ideas? I'm not sure where to go from here.
     

    Daezee

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    I've got an issue I can't seem to figure out.
    I'm having huge variations in velocity with my 5.56 reloads.
    I've used starline, lake city, and wolf brass.
    I weigh every charge, every charge is identical. All bullets seated to the same depth. Nothing weird going on. I've done everything I know of to make this as consistent as possible. I'm still getting 100 to 150 FPS variations in velocity.
    I know it isnt my chronograph, I've ran some factory ammo over it, much much more consistent.
    Any ideas? I'm not sure where to go from here.
    What powder are you using?
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    I've got an issue I can't seem to figure out.
    I'm having huge variations in velocity with my 5.56 reloads.
    I've used starline, lake city, and wolf brass.
    I weigh every charge, every charge is identical. All bullets seated to the same depth. Nothing weird going on. I've done everything I know of to make this as consistent as possible. I'm still getting 100 to 150 FPS variations in velocity.
    I know it isnt my chronograph, I've ran some factory ammo over it, much much more consistent.
    Any ideas? I'm not sure where to go from here.

    Neck tension can be a source of inconsistent speeds.
     

    Jevaughn

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    Are you weighing your brass? Not the most exact way to measure case capacity, but it'll get you in the ballpark. One thing I've noticed, especially using mixed brass or different lots of brass even from the same brand, is that the capacity is what has thrown my numbers off. One reason Federal gold medal match is such a generally accurate round is that the brass itself is very consistent. Case capacity is as critical to pressure as the amount of powder used, and pressure equates to velocity at the end of the day. I also always crimp my ammo even though neck tension (especially in a bolt gun) is usually adequate, as when I crimp, I'm removing one more variable from the equation.
     

    Jhunter

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    Too many variables. Too many facts left out. I struggled to measure consistent loads until I bought a magneto. Tell us everything. Which chrono, weight of bullet, how much neck tension, how much powder, how far are you jumping or jamming, is primer depth good?
     

    RobertTaylor

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    Are you weighing your brass? Not the most exact way to measure case capacity, but it'll get you in the ballpark. One thing I've noticed, especially using mixed brass or different lots of brass even from the same brand, is that the capacity is what has thrown my numbers off. One reason Federal gold medal match is such a generally accurate round is that the brass itself is very consistent. Case capacity is as critical to pressure as the amount of powder used, and pressure equates to velocity at the end of the day. I also always crimp my ammo even though neck tension (especially in a bolt gun) is usually adequate, as when I crimp, I'm removing one more variable from the equation.
    Not weighing brass. I've tried, just for fun, to shoot 2 boxes of factory ammo, right down all velocities, then load that exact brass, can't seem to find anything that really has consistent velocity. The factory load was more consistent than anything I've done. I've got so many different loads, all from hornady and sierra manuals, that I've used. I'll have to get back on exactly what I'm getting with a certain load.
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    H335, Tac, blc2

    How would you determine what is or isn't enough? Used new starline, sized, trimmed everything, measured the inside of the case mouth and all were consistent.

    How do the rounds feel, resistance wise, when you seat bullets?

    When it comes to a crimp, the Lee Factory Crimp Die is hard to beat for crimp strength consistency as case length doesn't matter like it would with a traditional roll crimp.

    What bullets? Blems? Seconds?

    Generally speaking MINIMUM case tension is when you can't push the bullet in just using your finger nail, but that's a crude minimum measurement technique and does little to assess consistency.
     

    RobertTaylor

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    Too many variables. Too many facts left out. I struggled to measure consistent loads until I bought a magneto. Tell us everything. Which chrono, weight of bullet, how much neck tension, how much powder, how far are you jumping or jamming, is primer depth good?
    I'd have to go back in some notebooks and check for exact stuff.
    Will say that I have pulled some factory ammo (cheap m855 and m193) and measured, found in some there was a difference of .3 grains between the minimum and max I pulled.
    I pulled some I loaded just to check, all mine were identical. I'll still have to get back with you for exact details on some of these loads though
     

    RobertTaylor

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    How do the rounds feel, resistance wise, when you seat bullets?

    When it comes to a crimp, the Lee Factory Crimp Die is hard to beat for crimp strength consistency as case length doesn't matter like it would with a traditional roll crimp.

    What bullets? Blems? Seconds?

    Generally speaking MINIMUM case tension is when you can't push the bullet in just using your finger nail, but that's a crude minimum measurement technique and does little to assess consistency.
    I've definitely had some big differences in the "resistance" in seating bullets in some of my once fired brass. My new brass I don't remember it being bad? I knew that certainly has a big effect on all this, but I'm still having issues with stuff that doesn't feel that way.

    How would you get them to all feel more consistent? Anneal every time before sizing?
     

    Jhunter

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    All of your prep affects velocity even annealing but it’s not going to effect it 100 fps. Using loads with 100% case capacity and loading .005” into the lands will help with extreme spread. Work loads up by adding .3 grains at a time. You will see velocity plane off. Again accurate instruments give accurate results
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    I've definitely had some big differences in the "resistance" in seating bullets in some of my once fired brass. My new brass I don't remember it being bad? I knew that certainly has a big effect on all this, but I'm still having issues with stuff that doesn't feel that way.

    How would you get them to all feel more consistent? Anneal every time before sizing?

    In my opinion using general reloading precautions and practices with standard published loads won't/shouldn't result in 150 FPS spread. While actual case volume will differ from brand to brand, thus in theory manifest itself in various FPS readings, I've never experienced that as being the cause of unacceptable spreads. Other might disagree, just disclosing my personal experiences.

    IF your chrony is in fact giving reliable data, something is off.

    When you size the brass, are you lubing the inside of the case mouth so the expander ball slides in and out smoothly? This can have an impact on how the case neck expands and retracts, thus effecting tension. Consistent sizing is a start to consistent neck tension.

    Primers need to be fully seated. In my experience (.45ACP and 10mm) I ran into an issue where my primers were not fully seated but the spread didn't clue me into the problem as surprisingly there was no big spread, a few supposed "light strikes" is what led to the discovery. So in may case, the velocity wasn't adversely effected, even though I realize it could be a factor in some cases and loads.

    Are your primers and powders "fresh". I once experienced bad results with accuracy and speeds only to find the cause were some very old primers I got from my dad. Inconsistent ignition and powder burn could be a cause.
     

    RobertTaylor

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    All of your prep affects velocity even annealing but it’s not going to effect it 100 fps. Using loads with 100% case capacity and loading .005” into the lands will help with extreme spread. Work loads up by adding .3 grains at a time. You will see velocity plane off. Again accurate instruments give accurate results
    I'm not loading for a bolt action, I've not really had a good reason to jam bullets into the lands of an AR.
    Certainly not arguing, I'm just wondering. Definitely appreciate all the help

    I mentioned I checked the charge weights of some factory ammo that was reasonably consistent, and my scale gave me a max difference of .3 grains, but my handloads are all the same.
    Wouldn't that atleast show that my charges are more consistent that factory? And using bullet comparators, my OAL is certainly more consistent.
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    I'm not loading for a bolt action, I've not really had a good reason to jam bullets into the lands of an AR.
    Certainly not arguing, I'm just wondering. Definitely appreciate all the help

    I mentioned I checked the charge weights of some factory ammo that was reasonably consistent, and my scale gave me a max difference of .3 grains, but my handloads are all the same.
    Wouldn't that atleast show that my charges are more consistent that factory? And using bullet comparators, my OAL is certainly more consistent.

    If your powders are fairly fresh .3 grs. isn't going to matter. I think you can rule out powder weight charge differences as a cause.

    Sounds like you're using good powders, rule out powder type as well.

    All the brass brands you mentioned are good, rule out case "type" as a cause.

    With what actual bullet are you seeing these large spreads?
     

    RobertTaylor

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    If your powders are fairly fresh .3 grs. isn't going to matter. I think you can rule out powder weight charge differences as a cause.

    Sounds like you're using good powders, rule out powder type as well.

    All the brass brands you mentioned are good, rule out case "type" as a cause.

    With what actual bullet are you seeing these large spreads?
    I remember having that spread with some sierra 55 gr blitzing, hornady 55 and 62 gr fmj.
    I have some everglades bulk 55 gr stuff. I don't expect the best from them, but we will see
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    I failed to add this earlier...

    I too have experienced some large spreads where I was quite surprised to see accuracy was not effected. Strange but true. I'm at work so I can't give specific examples but I know I've had some spreads in the 50-75 range and said screw it as accuracy was good.
     

    RobertTaylor

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    I failed to add this earlier...

    I too have experienced some large spreads where I was quite surprised to see accuracy was not effected. Strange but true. I'm at work so I can't give specific examples but I know I've had some spreads in the 50-75 range and said screw it as accuracy was good.
    I've had some fantastic groups with those 55 gr blitzkings, couldn't believe the numbers I was getting on velocity though
     

    Bowhntr6pt

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    I remember having that spread with some sierra 55 gr blitzing, hornady 55 and 62 gr fmj.
    I have some everglades bulk 55 gr stuff. I don't expect the best from them, but we will see

    The Hornady 55gr FMJ bullet is or once was a darn great performing bullet all things considered, it was or still is the FMJ standard IMO.

    Honestly, if accuracy is on par, ignore the spreads, you might be chasing your tail.
     

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