Recommendation for a 1911 Gunsmith

[BigH]

Who would y'all recommend that can do a 3# trigger job on a 1911? I'm in Fort Walton and not opposed to driving.

Thanks!


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[Dan1612]

Jays downtown Pensacola did mine, but the gunsmith there wouldn't go below 3.5 lbs.


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[shag 1911]

wilson sales a 3lb trigger set sear, hammer ,spring and disconnector . i have had good luck with them.

 

[1911Junky]

Once you go below 3.5 lbs it can get to be a safety issue....easy /accidentaldischarge as well as can prevent the sear spring from resetting the disco and causing multiple fires on one pull of the trigger. I do not go below 3.5lbs neither when doing trigger jobs.

 

[BigH]

Thanks gents, I'll holler at Jays and look into that trigger package. 1911Junky are you a gunsmith for hire? If so could you shoot me a pm on doing a trigger job and smoothing out a TRP?

 

[Dan1612]

3 lbs is perfectly safe if it's done by a good gunsmith. I briefly had a 1911 that at 3.5 lbs had hammer follow to half-cock. My carry gun is set at 3.5 exactly, and I have a new one getting the trigger cleaned up and pull dropped to 3, but I had to mail it off for that, and I have one that came set at 3 lb 1.5 oz average and shoots amazing. I can see why Jeff Cooper was a proponent for 3 lb crisp. 3.5 is close enough and not bad at all, as long as it's crisp.
Regardless of pull weight, half a pound won't make a difference in whether you can keep your booger hook off the bang switch like you're supposed to, that would be the real problem, not the trigger. Otherwise, let's all get NY connectors on everything.
Your TRP, having a firing pin safety will always have the slightest creep, but a really great gunsmith can easily and safely drop your weight to 3 lbs and minimize creep. $0.02, YMMV.


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[CCHGN]

A trigger job is just a matter of polishing all the parts that make contact with each other, in a trigger assy.


I would ask why you think you need a 3lb trigger? I ask that because in my experience, most folks who ask for that really wants a smoother trigger. One that doesn't 'hang up' or seem like a 2 stage, but one that suddenly breaks clean, without any notice in the trigger pull. Btw, I never understood that "breaks like a glass rod" thing. I work in glass and hate the way glass breaks. I wouldn't describe a trigger to glass in any way, shape or form. 3lb is no advantage at all, as said, it's dangerous.

If you perform rapid fire( say a mozambique drill- 3 targets, 3 yrds apart and you double tap the chest of each one then one to the head of each ), with adrenaline flowing, the 4 or even 5lb trigger is your friend.

The key is a smooth trigger, that breaks with no 'hang ups' or stages.

 

[Django]

A trigger job is just a matter of polishing all the parts that make contact with each other, in a trigger assy.

I think that statement is over simplifying. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCF2u3K743A

 

[CCHGN]

3 lbs is perfectly safe if it's done by a good gunsmith. Regardless of pull weight, half a pound won't make a difference in whether you can keep your booger hook off the bang switch like you're supposed to, that would be the real problem, not the trigger. Otherwise, let's all get NY connectors on everything.

well, you're showing what you don't know about the workings of a 1911 trigger assy. As 1911junky said, when you take too much material off the parts of the trigger( that brings the poundage down), you take the chance of system eventually( the more you shoot it the more material comes off- why triggers 'smooth out' with use) malfunctioning and causing full auto firing, a very dangerous( and illegal) situation.

Also, I'd ask how long you've been carrying concealed, because I have for over 10 yrs and have many times had my thumb safety taken off safe, just by moving around in day to day activity. If not for the grip safety, I'd likely shoot myself in the ass, the same way, so it's not all about the "booger hook on the bang switch", no matter how 'cool' that sounds.

 

[Dan1612]

Breaks like glass means just that, a sharp sudden release, as opposed to a twig that bends and eventually breaks. Maybe the icicle analogy makes more sense. 1911's by design have a stage called "take-up" which leads to a stiffer second stage, creating what feels like a trigger of 2 stages. A single stage trigger in a 1911 is impossible to do safely or at all really.

OP would probably be fine with a trigger at 3.5, and is probably what he meant.
A true, 3lb trigger isn't dangerous if it's done right and you follow the basic firearm safety rules.
Now, let's get back on topic and recommend some good local gunsmiths. Your local gun shop might have some good leads.
Moving on...


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[Dan1612]

Hey Syria,
If your thumb safety disengages, it needs to be refitted properly, by a gunsmith, not bubba'd up in your basement.
In a proper holster, your trigger should not move, ever.
I've not been carrying concealed very long, but I'm more active than most day to day, and my safety and trigger have never moved, but they're in a proper holster mounted to a gun belt and are on a properly fitted gun. I carry my 3 LB gun from time to time, and again, nothing ever moves.

Now, let's stop the validation B.S you like to vomit all over the forum, perhaps you could actually add some value and recommend a gunsmith to the OP.


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[BigH]

Well the 3lbs came from shooting a very nice Wilson that was set to 3lbs and talking with some friends that had work done to theirs. I can see were it could get dangerous if not done correctly, thats why I'm looking for recommendations and not dropping it at the first shop in town. I'll be happy with somewhere in the 3-3.5 range, heck anything will be better than the 5.5-6 that it is now. All most all of my guns are safe queens, this being one of them and it won't ever be my carry gun or ever have more than 1,000 rds shot through it.

Well any suggestions gents?

 

[Dan1612]

Jays does good work. Brasshog has a very nice trigger on a Colt that he did himself.
I've heard Shoal River has a good gunsmith, I believe his name is Paul. He might also be the closest to you. I'd say check him out first.
Good luck.


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[1911Junky]

Thanks gents, I'll holler at Jays and look into that trigger package. 1911Junky are you a gunsmith for hire? If so could you shoot me a pm on doing a trigger job and smoothing out a TRP?

PM sent

 

[jogan]

stick with 1911Junky. Honest, reliable, a LOT closer to you, clean, suave, good looking, smells of small new-born puppies.... But really, he did a simple trigger job on my 1911 and I've had zero issues with it since and it's been pounded in a few IDPA matches.

 

[BigH]

Thanks gents! Yes sir 1911Junky is going to take care of it for me!

 

[CCHGN]

I think that statement is over simplifying. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCF2u3K743A

Hmmm, how can it be over simplified? That's simply what it is. Alot of folks don't know what's involved with a "trigger job". Some may think (because others tell them) it requires adding other parts, taking parts away, cutting parts down, etc., it don't. It's simply polishing the parts that contact other parts. If metal contacts metal and is polished and lubed, it moves smooth as silk.

Btw, nice vid, it shows one 'smith doing a trigger job, but what's he doing? polishing contact points.

 

[Dan1612]

Hmmm, how can it be over simplified?.

He found someone to do it, nothing to prove anymore. There's plenty of other threads to hijack. Go on now...




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[Django]

Hmmm, how can it be over simplified? That's simply what it is. Alot of folks don't know what's involved with a "trigger job". Some may think (because others tell them) it requires adding other parts, taking parts away, cutting parts down, etc., it don't. It's simply polishing the parts that contact other parts. If metal contacts metal and is polished and lubed, it moves smooth as silk.

Btw, nice vid, it shows one 'smith doing a trigger job, but what's he doing? polishing contact points.

Thought the video spoke for it self. but, I'll to clear up the point for you....in addition to polishing parts, it takes skill, knowledge and proper tools.

 

[MIAMI MATT]

Lmao .....