HD Tactical

Mil-dot for rimfire

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  • Pompnewbie

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    Looking for a mid~price range mildot for my "trainer" 100~200$ range
    Has anyone used the BSA tactical mil-dot midway sales for 150? If so what do you think of it
    Thinking about it or like a mueller APT
    I would love a SWFA but it would probably be overkill for what I'm doing
     

    SAWMAN

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    Respectfully.....just wondering what the mildot would do for a 22LR. How would it be used ?? To be proficient in using the mildot system you have to carry a cheat sheet booklet with you or have a ton of crib notes. At best, the dots could be used for the holdovers(forget the mil stuff) with a bunch of shooting and taking notes. Also ....bring along a laser rangefinder. --- SAWMAN
     

    Pompnewbie

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    Hey Bill, Thanks for the question
    The purpose of this build is to "train" myself to use a mil-dot scope at unknown ranges, I do not own a rangefinder. I was going to try out a BSA sweet 22 scope with the 3 turrets for bullet weight.. but then I would need to know exact yardage to adjust the scope.
    With the mil-dot as long as I know roughly how tall my target is I can determine yardage and dial in appropriately for drop.
    I am running two programs on my phone right now one for mil-dot range (i enter target size in inches and through the scope in mils) and it gives me yrds to target
    the 2nd one is calculated for bullet weight, 50 yrd zero, BC, MV, and reticle +wind, and it kicks out my adjustment in mils/moa or inches for adjustment

    I just want to learn how to shoot at unknown longer ranges with dialing the scope in for range and wind holding dead on.
    Hope that answers the question I know you probably have alot of experience to share and I look forward to your reply
    Mike
     

    SAWMAN

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    If that is your application I would suggest that you shrink everything by a 1:10 ratio. IOW...shoot at 1/10th sized targets at 1/10th the range.

    May I also ask...what sized targets are you ultimately wanting to put hits on ?? The up/down is pretty easy to "dope"...it is the right/left hold off that is tricky. Study "wind value". Use the pie charts. We used to watch certain things that we could count on. Elephant grass(fagowie grass)mirage,thatching on the huts,a cooking fire's smoke,the long hanging roots from a Banyan tree.

    I would also suggest that before you get caught up in the mildot system take a look at the Shepherd line of scopes and some of the Leupolds reticles. Just my humble opinion...but...I think the mildot is a royal PITA. Given my feelings however....some men can use it extremely well. --- SAWMAN
     

    Pompnewbie

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    I would like to hit golfball size at 100, clay pigeons at 200 etc.. I have been studying wind value and reading mirage's
     

    SAWMAN

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    Then..."bring enough gun". I have a tweaked Ruger 10/22 that will do that on a good day(or close to it), however I would suggest a Win 52 or the Kimber that IIRC fly&scuba had for sale hearabouts. MUCH more potential. --- SAWMAN
     

    M.O.A.

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    With a rifle properly zeroed at 200yd hitting a 4" steel at
    400 is pretty straightforward. No smoke, chicken bones or voodoo required. Mil dot is fun but if you're shooting a box rifle with factory ammo that pretty much eliminated the need for a mil dot. Just my 2cents. We regularly shoot out to 700 yards with our .30 and 6mm stuff.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Using the mildot system at ranges >500yds(~) ---> (IMO) --->
    * 90% of the "non-professional" mildot users don't use the reticle the way it was designed to be used.
    * 30% of the "professional" mildot users do not use the reticle to it's full potential.
    * 90% of the "professional" mildot users MUST have cheat sheets,crib notes,electronic calculators,mil dot slip sticks,scribbling from a ball point pen on their forearm,or their spotters doing the math with pencil and paper instead of looking/glassing as they should be doing.

    One of the arguments FOR the mildot system is after acquiring the target,how quickly you can "send it". Another one is how accurate it is/it works. Another one is ..... "it was good enough for the snipers before me".

    I do not have much experience using the mildot system. Just enough to know that IMO it is a PITA. For the people that feel that they need some help at the "longer" ranges,IMO,there are better choices. Leupold,Shepherd,Leatherwood,Nightforce,and some of the other higher end scopes will allow you to "send it" while still looking thru the scope and not doodling on paper.

    Most "non-professional" users of the mildot scopes seem to forget several things. They forget that the mildot scope should be set at a certain power. They forget that a $79.00 mildot scope will most likely have shitty glass,a non-accurate reticle,and crappy internals(tracking,repeatability.etc).They forget that at the longer ranges the scope should be used perfectly level. Check out how it will effect bullet placement if your weapon is canted as little as 2-5 degrees at 1000yds. While your at it..take a look at Magnus effect and how it could effect bullet placement at the longer ranges.

    ALSO.....using a mildot system with a scope that the reticle is set in the second focal plane seems to be just.......silly. Actually extremely silly. Before getting' anywhere near serious about using the mildot system you should research this.

    Good Shootin' to all. --- SAWMAN
     

    M.O.A.

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    ^^^what he said ^^^ but it sounds so cool to say you have a mil dot reticle....and milliradian is such a sexy word. Lol
     

    SAWMAN

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    M.O.A., I agree with that. That would be another 95'ish percent.

    NOW.....I have seen people use the mildot reticle for the aiming points and not the intended application. You still gotta know your ranges though. A laser rangefinder or knowing the distance thru familiarity with the area is great. (get to the "party" early and zap everything with an infrared laser is the cats meow. Never hold it on a person,some say certain individuals can actually "feel" it.)

    Other than that,keep the scope on the highest setting or use a fixed power...AND...put a whole bunch of holes in paper at a bunch of different known distances. --- SAWMAN
     
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