Anyone know who to call for a concrete slab for a red iron building?

[SouthBound]

I did a quick search and found several older posts but nothing newer. Looking to build a 100w x 50l x 17h red iron building on some property in Pace. I priced it turn key but it's way too high IMO. I can get the building kit for almost 90K cheeper and am capable of putting it together myself (with some help and a lull or two). Just need to find someone to do the slab. I'll have the stamped prints from the building manufacturer and can pull permits if needed. Going to wall off about 800sq ft of it for climate controlled work space and reloading area and put storage above it. The rest will be a nice wood shop for when I get around to building the house. Made the HUGE mistake of going to Blackwater River Tools, damn... Got my Christmas list... hehe. If you have not been and like power tools, that place is amazing!

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[justapilgrim]

pm me...I'm a general contractor, I might can help

 

[stage20]

Do not cheap out on concrete labor. It's an expensive mistake. If they aren't commercial contractors I would not deal with them. Need to specialize in slick finish. It's an art. I can't recommend anyone because I fix hack concrete jobs daily.

 

[rmsks3]

Where are you located, work for a supplier.

 

[oneshot]

Call this Number 850-572-4720 Name is John Ard He is in charge of a big concret plant in Milton

 

[Raven]

And dont tell them what its for because half the crew will likely be felons. I looked up an old contractor buddy of mine once to do some work for me and we got deep into conversation and lost all OpSec, just to have him show up with a felon day laborer who wouldn't shut up about my collection and telling all his friends and family about the cool shit he had seen

 

[Raven]

And dont tell them what its for because half the crew will likely be felons. I looked up an old contractor buddy of mine once to do some work for me and we got deep into conversation and lost all OpSec, just to have him show up with a felon day laborer who wouldn't shut up about my collection and telling all his friends and family about the cool shit he had seen

10 years ago, before the economy and my wife's ex husband made sure to cost me all my cool shit anyways

 

[lil'skeet]

Here is my good friends #. He is not a felon, does not hire felons. I have known him and worked with him for almost 10 years. He is out of Mossy Head.

We do concrete on military bases so felons are not an option. All English speaking crew.

He started his own company a few years ago.
My name is Kurt.

Phil Castle
Castle Concrete
18599577493

 

[M60Gunner]

It is hard to find anyone due to all the new construction no one wants our smaller jobs. I also had the felon thing. Overall it is very frustrating. My need is drywall.

 

[FrommerStop]

Do not cheap out on concrete labor. It's an expensive mistake. If they aren't commercial contractors I would not deal with them. Need to specialize in slick finish. It's an art. I can't recommend anyone because I fix hack concrete jobs daily.

Demand that they put 'STEEL' in that slab. At least the steel mesh, better yet some rebar also. They will not want to do it, because it is more work. Also be there when they pour. Do not let them wet that concrete a whole lot. The fiber mesh that they put in rather than laying out steel is worthless. All slabs crack, but the steel usually will prevent inch wide separations.
I contract out very little work. many laborers that work such projects have criminal recrods, drinking and drug problems. Do not let them know you have guns or anything of value. If you have young women, keep them away from the site. Often the laborers have roving eyes, not just for what you may have, but also for your neighbors yard relative to return nocturnal visits. This includes any strangers, including delivery people, lawn care, etc. If you do not know them, then do not trust them.

 

[lil'skeet]

Wire mesh is a waste of time and $. You pull it up or set it on chairs then stomp it to the ground while walking on it to place concrete. Been doing this professionally, full time and successfully for over 25 years. All but one handful of slabs I have demolished have had wire rotting away on the ground. We use a heavy gauge wire on base that does work we'll with the proper chairs. Very expensive.
Vertical separation of concrete is due to poor compaction, slab thicknesses that are not uniform "thin areas" and water or tree roots under slab. Basically placing on a bad sub base.
Fiber mesh does work. Early entry of either "tooled joints or saw cuts" will control cracks. All concrete will crack it is a matter of controlling where it goes.
Even post tension concrete will crack but I'm not gettin into that.
We use a vibrating screed on our slabs which vibrates them and gets consolidation. Gets air out and makes for a lot stronger, denser slab. We also use super plasticizer which is a water reducer. It is a chemical that acts like water but is not. It allows concrete to flow without the shrinkage you get from adding too much water.
Here is driveway Phil just did for me a week ago. (3) very experienced men did this very easily.

 

[lil'skeet]

Early the next morning they ran (2) saw cuts from road to garage. Narrowed it down to 8' x 10' control joints. I don't have pics but 1002 Brett st. Crestview if you want to see.

 

[FrommerStop]

Wire mesh is a waste of time and $. You pull it up or set it on chairs then stomp it to the ground while walking on it to place concrete. Been doing this professionally, full time and successfully for over 25 years. All but one handful of slabs I have demolished have had wire rotting away on the ground. We use a heavy gauge wire on base that does work we'll with the proper chairs. Very expensive.
Vertical separation of concrete is due to poor compaction, slab thicknesses that are not uniform "thin areas" and water or tree roots under slab. Basically placing on a bad sub base.
Fiber mesh does work. Early entry of either "tooled joints or saw cuts" will control cracks. All concrete will crack it is a matter of controlling where it goes.
Even post tension concrete will crack but I'm not gettin into that.
We use a vibrating screed on our slabs which vibrates them and gets consolidation. Gets air out and makes for a lot stronger, denser slab. We also use super plasticizer which is a water reducer. It is a chemical that acts like water but is not. It allows concrete to flow without the shrinkage you get from adding too much water.
Here is driveway Phil just did for me a week ago. (3) very experienced men did this very easily.

i do not know that much about pouring cement, but I want as much steel in as possible. Basic practice of course is to put chairs under the rebar and it can be done for steel mesh also. I had them use at least three runs of #5 rebar in my footer.
Fiber mesh was used on pouring a slab for my neighbors barn. In 6 months there was a one inch gap wide crack in the slab that ran the full length of the slab. There was a problem underneath that slab. There had been berm there and they leveled off the sides with fill dirt that I am sure that they compacted the soil. But not enough. There is general saying I was told by someone that worked large building projects for the AEC, it takes 7 years for soil to compact. I think that depends on the soil type.

I once poured a stack of blocks with fiber mesh and one blow from a sledge hammer broke the column in half. Put two pieces of number 4 rebar in it and not much will happen. Even if cracked it will stay together.
I look at driveways that are made from over wetted concrete and they often break and heave up. Drive a fire dept pumper truck onto such a drive way and it cracks. Water tends to often flow under drive way concrete and if undermined, they will break with time and heave up.

Place steel in them properly and it will not happen. To work best the steel should not be on the bottom. If you use steel around the beach there can be problems with corrosion there and I am not the person to solve them. The guy that built that concrete dome house at the beach had to take measures to prevent rusting of the steel. Rusting steel rebar I was told can split concrete. For important pours I know there is a slump test to prevent people telling the driver to over wet the concrete.

One is supposed pull the steel mesh up and not let it sit on the bottom and there are chairs for it.
I built a wrap about porch on three sides of my house with usable space beneath it. Crossed rebar on the bottom at 8 inch spacing, then mesh, and then rebar layer on the top giving three layers of steel. Then, mixed the concrete in small mixer with a lot rock and shaking. Those six inch thick slabs are holding up so far quite well after 15 years, even for the cold junctions that are cross with rebar.

 

[lil'skeet]

Wire mesh does work. The heavy gauge sheets works the way it is supposed to. The rolls you find at home stores are so thin it doest hold shape.
5000 psi concrete with fiber I have never had a problem. Can park a car or truck on it in a week

 

[FrommerStop]

Wire mesh does work. The heavy gauge sheets works the way it is supposed to. The rolls you find at home stores are so thin it doest hold shape.
5000 psi concrete with fiber I have never had a problem. Can park a car or truck on it in a week

Can you order 5000 PSI from the local concrete plants and if so I imagine that it is expensive for a load. I have seen bags of it for sale and they are not cheap. For a small project, it could useful.

I wonder can someone use steel mesh with asphalt. Asphalt used to be cheaper than concrete and it is flexible and easier to get into and repair than concrete.

 

[lil'skeet]

I'll add to this one more bit of info.
#3 rebar on a 24" grid.
4" thick or 6" thick if you are going to park semi's, heavy equipment or dump trucks on it.
3500 psi is good either way, 5000 psi is way overkill and you can drive on it in a week. We have driven 30k lbs lulls on 6" 5000 psi in 24 hours. Not recommended but red iron workers have done it to us with no failures.
That's my 2 cents soon to be less than 1cent if Harris wins

 

[lil'skeet]

Can you order 5000 PSI from the local concrete plants and if so I imagine that it is expensive for a load. I have seen bags of it for sale and they are not cheap. For a small project, it could useful.

I wonder can someone use steel mesh with asphalt. Asphalt used to be cheaper than concrete and it is flexible and easier to get into and repair than concrete.

5000 psi is about $15 more per yard of concrete. Never heard of metal reinforcement with asphalt. Asphalt gets expensive due to amount of sub base needed to make it sound. A long run of driveway is where it would be cost effective. Over 200'

Concrete done properly will outlast asphalt 5x over.

 

[FrommerStop]

5000 psi is about $15 more per yard of concrete. Never heard of metal reinforcement with asphalt. Asphalt gets expensive due to amount of sub base needed to make it sound. A long run of driveway is where it would be cost effective. Over 200'

Concrete done properly will outlast asphalt 5x over.

My driveway is 450 ft. Most just use gravel.

 

[lil'skeet]

Crushed concrete as a great route to go if you want to go cheap. $15 a tonne picked up at Concrete plant. Pack,It & wet it and it's as hard as concrete. The only thing is I can get Dusty when it dries out

 

[FrommerStop]

Crushed concrete as a great route to go if you want to go cheap. $15 a tonne picked up at Concrete plant. Pack,It & wet it and it's as hard as concrete. The only thing is I can get Dusty when it dries out

I was thinking of that.
Relative to dust, if we get extreme drought I get dust off my drive way as it is.