If you are using the 50/200 yard zero, meaning that the projectile passes the same plane at 0 and 200 yards, like I did you'll find that at 100 yards its +1.5" and at 300 yards it's -1.5".
Not sure where the Zeroing vids went. I recommend the USMC AR ZERO!!! I stand by it or maybe I should say I'm still standing because of it!
Semper Fi
WR
Mine doesn't drop until it reaches 1003yrds. I use special bullets and an extra long barrel... I think they are called laser trajectory tractor beam bullets... They are 55gr, they do make a 62gr but it shoots .08 of an inch lower than the 55gr at 1003yrds. Iron sites Btw..?.
OH Yeah ...!... my 30-378Wby shooting the 220gr SMK's does not drop at all. It will not even follow the curvature of the earth. The bullets all just go out into space.
Actually...the ballistic program that I frequently use is the JBM Calculations (Trajectory) site. But remember.......info in - info out. --- SAWMAN
55gr 3080fps. 16 inch M193 ammo. This chart is borrowed from AR15.com
I prefer the 50yd zero. It has the lowest amount of deviation between 25 and 300. At 50 and 200 its zero. Between 50 and 200 its high. Past 200 its low.
Some prefer the 100 zero since its a nice rounded number and most of our shooting ranges are in 100yd increments. On a more practical basis, some prefer the 100yd zero since missing low isn't a bad idea. There is more body mass to hit bellow center mass than above center mass. Furthermore, a low miss will often strike the ground and give a visual indication of where your missing, this can also kick up dust and help with suppressive fire.
Notice how high 25yds is, this is due to the 2.6 inch sight offset; the zero is high to compensate. Anything bellow about 37.5yds will strike grossly high. I've found in carbine course exercises that with the 100yd zero, you will have to aim at the widow's peak for a shot between the eyebrows. Mathematically, both a 50yd and 100yd zero will track very close on a target 25yds away.