What gun stuff did you do today?

[Raven]

nice.. did it cost you your first-born?

Scorpio is still wet behind the ears himself

 

[Scorpio7821]

nice.. did it cost you your first-born?

Didn't cost me much the guy had a after war 1918 luger p08 for 1700 1815 with tax but I let 2 older gentlemen get it so the owner brought me this 1 from his personal collection and let me buy it for 2100

 

[Scorpio7821]

Scorpio is still wet behind the ears himself

Indeed I am can't buy nice stuff if I have kids lol

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Set up ambush, saw a young spike. Heard several shots.

 

[gfb46]

Installed Glock 43 night sights on my Diamondback DB9 G4.

 

[Raven]

Loaded mags and made ready

 

[Anangrypasta]

Snow day

 

[Jester896]

looked over a 700 in .223 that wouldn't shoot to see why
24" looks like from the date '89
has an odd crown

throat looks good but needs cleaning

has some pitting but it isn't picking up copper from them

sorry my mirror is chipped...new ones on the way
plenty of carbon and copper everywhere else though

 

[Jester896]

I think this is the culprit right here...the muzzle/crown

yep...plenty of copper and carbon...2 passes, 1 with carbon cleaner then 1 with both

fired 3 rounds 1st 1.5 L, 2nd 2.0 H and 1.5 L and 3rd 4"R of that last one...nope... it won't shoot.
This one might need new rings...or at least cut the ridge out of the cylinder

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Ambush. Different location.

Nope. Crazy baby dillo and birds.

 

[DixieReb]

Took the Ruger No 1 to the power line right of way for a long range shot, only saw a small 4 point and a doe, maybe ole No 1 gets to take a shot by Feb 10th

 

[Daezee]

Brought lead samples to a friend with a lead hardness tester. We’d bought lead from a friend who can no longer reload, and I suspected it was harder than what I was told. Nothing wrong with that, I just need to know what I’m dealing with so it can be used appropriately. The soft lead was more like wheel weights in hardness. The wheel weight lead was more like hard ball alloy, so I can use that as-is for my bolt action rifle bullets.

Friday I picked up my previously mentioned Grail gun, a Model 1889 Danish Krag 8x58R caliber. All metal matching numbers. Step 1 Run a solvent soaked patch through bore and let soak an hour or so. It came out dark bluish green. Brush bore and let it soak in solvent, using afresh solvent patch every 6-12 hours. I let the chemistry do the work…works for me. 48 hours later still on step 1…they must’ve not had copper solvent back in the day. Mine’s a bringback from WWII.

Step 2 will be form brass from 8x56R Hungarian brass and work up accurate cast bullet load. I already load the caliber for a Swedish rolling block so I don’t need buy anything. I’d bought extra Hungarian brass a few years ago in anticipation of getting a Danish Krag some day. After the rain I need to take some pics, as while it is a Krag, the door for loading hinges forward while U.S. Krags hinges downward. It also has a barrel jacket around the barrel.

 

[ABlaster]

I got sort of behind on this! I shot every day last week except Friday, when I drove down to Clearwater for the USPSA Fla State Championships. Fun match, and did well.

Looking forward to the next major match, which should be Florida Open in Frostproof.

 

[Darkness_Actual]

Didn't make it to the Pig Farm but found a small spot to shoot with friends yesterday.

 

[Jdcujo]

Brought lead samples to a friend with a lead hardness tester. We’d bought lead from a friend who can no longer reload, and I suspected it was harder than what I was told. Nothing wrong with that, I just need to know what I’m dealing with so it can be used appropriately. The soft lead was more like wheel weights in hardness. The wheel weight lead was more like hard ball alloy, so I can use that as-is for my bolt action rifle bullets.

Friday I picked up my previously mentioned Grail gun, a Model 1889 Danish Krag 8x58R caliber. All metal matching numbers. Step 1 Run a solvent soaked patch through bore and let soak an hour or so. It came out dark bluish green. Brush bore and let it soak in solvent, using afresh solvent patch every 6-12 hours. I let the chemistry do the work…works for me. 48 hours later still on step 1…they must’ve not had copper solvent back in the day. Mine’s a bringback from WWII.

Step 2 will be form brass from 8x56R Hungarian brass and work up accurate cast bullet load. I already load the caliber for a Swedish rolling block so I don’t need buy anything. I’d bought extra Hungarian brass a few years ago in anticipation of getting a Danish Krag some day. After the rain I need to take some pics, as while it is a Krag, the door for loading hinges forward while U.S. Krags hinges downward. It also has a barrel jacket around the barrel.

I just looked up pictures of the rifle and gods that's pretty.
Also looked up the cost of brass when it's in stock and dang. Grafs with ffl price 50 bucks for 20 good lord.

 

[Jdcujo]

Didn't make it to the Pig Farm but found a small spot to shoot with friends yesterday.

View attachment 207730

I haven't been out to pig farm since their culvert took out the road awhile back. Saw they were having issues with the easement due to land developers

 

[Darkness_Actual]

I haven't been out to pig farm since their culvert took out the road awhile back. Saw they were having issues with the easement due to land developers

Yeah that entire situation is bs. It's the only outdoor range I like to shoot at but I know the owner so I'm biased. Haven't been to Element yet.

 

[Jdcujo]

Yeah that entire situation is bs. It's the only outdoor range I like to shoot at but I know the owner so I'm biased. Haven't been to Element yet.

The owner is good people. Used to make that drive once or twice a week just to get out there.

 

[Daezee]

Here's my M1889 made in 1896 Danish Krag 8x58R. It is a very long rifle and a WWII bring back. Danish 7th infantry regiment. See how the magazine door opens to the front vs opening downward in US and Swedish Krag's. Still soaking and brushing the bore and getting dirty patches. I suspect copper fouling on top of powder fouling on top of copper fouling, etc. Bore looks shiny, but rifling edges are rounded. Whether that's the way they were made or whether worn from shooting, I don't know. Barrel was made in 1896 too. Should be fine for my cast bullet shooting, I hope.

One thing that puzzles me, and I've not found the answer yet, is that M1889 rifles (unless blued by a reseller or recent owner) seem to have a bare metal look to them as in no finish on major parts, even in some areas where nothing should/could have been rubbing the finish off unless deliberate. It's as if the Danish never refinished them or they were just left "bright" from the git go. I know mine at least went back for the 1910 upgrade to add a finger operated safety (see manual safety on right side above the bolt knob). Then above the safety you can see bluing on the part that holds the extractor to the bolt assembly, but yet to the rear of that the rear of the striker rod with its checkered thumb piece is bright metal. Last photo shows the barrel jacket with the barrel sticking out to the right.

Hope you found this interesting. I neglected to photograph the bayonet. Mine was made in 1891 and metal of bayonet and scabbard is bright finish.

 

[JWlineman]

Didn't make it to the Pig Farm but found a small spot to shoot with friends yesterday.

View attachment 207730

Cool stuff man, is that a warden you're running?