Shooting the C308.....Fantastic until...

[FrommerStop]

Mine does the same sheet. It’s typical century quality, between already worn out parts, incorrect rollers, ground carrier to make bolt gap 1/2 correct the easy way. Try the dime test to see if it gets any easier to pull charging handle. May could try new handle.
But looks like your carrier front had been ground already.
Grab a beer or three and start reading this. Pics don’t show up for me. They may if you’re registered.

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Where you able to get your rifle working right. If you were to silver solder a spacer on the end of the bolt carrier would that fix problem with the bolt handle and racking the C308 action correctly. .

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Just got home, long day. Plan on working on it tomm during the tsunami that is supposed to hit according to the fake news,lol.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

I run my HK's with a fair amount of grease internally. It is H&K labled grease that I have had since I bought the guns.
Same with my AR's and my older FN. A fairly heavy grease stays in place much better than oil. --- SAWMAN

Suggestions on grease type? Is the hk stuff moly or something exotic? Hell I'll try it. Been hosing it down with rem oil. Well everything actually. It's what I use.

 

[FrommerStop]

Suggestions on grease type? Is the hk stuff moly or something exotic? Hell I'll try it. Been hosing it down with rem oil. Well everything actually. It's what I use.

Your problem is most likely not lubrication, but it certainly will not hurt to make sure it is right.

 

[SAWMAN]

The lube type that I got is unknown. I would think that H&K does not sell it anymore. When I bought my guns at the authorized H&K dealer he had it on the shelf along with other products. He also had 15 or so 91's and 5 or 6 93's. Bunches of HK marked mags,carry handles,cam type scope bases,etc,etc.
This was at a medium sized gunshop in semi-rural Maine. My 91 was $680 and the 93 was about the same.
I do not believe that this grease is anything special. Back then,there was no "special grease". Most likely mil issue repackaged.
I would think that a small tube of about anything that is sold would be good. A bait and tackle store (especially salt water) would have some. Bass Pro definately. The larger gun shops also. Tetra Gun has been a good product. Try to get clear grease . . the thicker the better.
I apply it with a Q-Tip. Very small amounts to the surfaces that work together. ESPECIALLY the high pressure areas. Locking piece,rollers,bolt,anything that moves together after that 55,000psi occurs.
AR's . . . cam pin,outside of bolt,upper guide rails,outside of carrier (in certin spots).
Think about the slow motion mechanics of these guns . . . then apply A SMALL amount of grease accordinly. Don't stop using Break Free just because you use a little grease either. --- SAWMAN

 

[SAWMAN]

Here are some of the ones that I use. Some I use on different parts of a specific gun. I use these on pretty much all my guns . . . rifles,pistols,revos,even muzzle loaders.
I apply any and all EXTREMELY lightly and in just the right spot(s). --- SAWMAN

 

[FrommerStop]

In the south likely any run of the mill grease will do for they way I use weapons. Note that I say ' I use' and the way some may use weapons.
I most often lube after every trip with oil of some sort. I am just not using mine relative to round count very hard except for at times my pistols and I need to maybe br looking into a good lube for my glocks.
I specify the south here. If you hunt colder climates for example some grease and even oils can freeze up a gun so that it would not even fire. Cosmoline left in surplus military bolt is famous for such things. Gun fired fine at the range. Went up in the mountains and had a good shot at an elk, pulled the trigger, and nothing.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Prob should tote it over to JJ's he probably tell me more about it in 20 mins than I could read in 12 hours on the net. May do that. I also figured the gun just needed more break in. Very low round count on it.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Also the trigger has gotten better from shooting. +250 rds.

 

[FrommerStop]

Does anyone know of local gunsmiths that are set up to weld on rails for the PTR91 GI model. I have not asked around. I want someone that regularly does it so there is no learning curve involved. Eventually I will asked Alan at up at Ole Frontier, but there may be someone in the area that is intimately familiar with the G3 and that regularly is working them. Such people can also do quality trigger work on it.
I do have a name for one well know gunsmith, but Mark G is in Arizona and I do not mail firearms off to get worked on.

Taking a century screwed up gun to many gunsmiths is not a way to make friends in many cases, lol. Rebel rider, if you take you gun to JJ please let us know how it turns out. Fixing something that was made wrong can be hard. I figure it is better to spend the extra money for PTR rather than a Frankenrifle from Century.
But, I do have a WASR from Century that was ok that other than mag wobble is a good rifle.

 

[FrommerStop]

Also the trigger has gotten better from shooting. +250 rds.

250 rounds, sounds like the rifle is broken in enough.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Tearing it apart now! Definitely not new parts. Supposingly they bought out PTR parts. On the bright side lots o parts online cheap and my repair job on the spring keeper is good. Did see some odd wear on the bolt carrier inside where the spring/rod goes in. Try to get a pic later.

 

[FrommerStop]

Tearing it apart now! Definitely not new parts. Supposingly they bought out PTR parts. On the bright side lots o parts online cheap and my repair job on the spring keeper is good. Did see some odd wear on the bolt carrier inside where the spring/rod goes in. Try to get a pic later.

The CETME receivers and barrels can not come in and I guess that is what they are buying from PTR. Below is a chopped century CETME parts kit. No barrel and I see part of a chopped receiver with the rear part of it completely missing other then the part with the rear sight. They still need to include some other new parts for the parts count. The trigger groups looks like it could be for FA fire and so maybe that needs to also be ditched. I am not sure.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

The safety goes all the way up to remove. Got the bolt apart, yuk. Pretty simple break down though.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

All cleaned up and greased. Bolt assembly is not riding the charging handle. Still have to figure out the headspace and see. ** looked at it and read it several times still dont have a clue about the head spacing. Have had no issues shooting or accuracy issues and no screwed up brass coming out of it, so I'm gonna say it must be ok.

 

[76251]

Working on this design rifle is usually labor intensive. About like taking a Golani to someone who works on Galils and asking them to “fix it”. $500 later you probably have a better Golani that still has century billboard on it.

 

[FrommerStop]

Working on this design rifle is usually labor intensive. About like taking a Golani to someone who works on Galils and asking them to “fix it”. $500 later you probably have a better Golani that still has century billboard on it.

I think that working on it might be expensive if the people involved are highly not knowledgeable about it. If you know what is what with it, it would be perhaps some parts, some repair, and it is done or one would know it is not worth while to fix depending on what is wrong. Gun works so that is a very good indication, just hard to break the rollers out of lock up to retract the bolt. Century says $749.99 MSRP and that is not a good price if the parts are won.

 

[76251]

Differences in g3 and Cetme front of carriers and cocking handle supports.
Part of T.Mark.G tutorial

 

[FrommerStop]

Differences in g3 and Cetme front of carriers and cocking handle supports.
Part of T.Mark.G tutorial

Insufficient contact was my guess. The monkeys at the Century contractor were just too lazy to make that fitting correct. Probably also a good idea to also check the surfaces of the locking piece that come into contact with the rollers.

 

[Rebel_Rider1969]

Differences in g3 and Cetme front of carriers and cocking handle supports.
Part of T.Mark.G tutorial

No gap like that, it's very small. Working better now. When latched and carrier is all the way forward you can wiggle the charging handle seems not to be touching the bolt. I think maybe it was just me not being familiar with the new action. No visible gap between the latch/ charger and the bolt carrier.