DK Firearms

Anyone finished a 80% lower

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  • Sgump

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    Anyone finished a 80%lower and how hard and how did it turn out
     

    Raven

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    This would be interesting to hear as well.


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    Had a friend of mine try it and followed the instructions blindly, to a T, and promptly ruined the lower by drilling out the interior pocket for the trigger too deep. He used the supplies tools and instructions. So definitely do your homework on the correct drill depth first.
     

    FrommerStop

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    Have a spare for your first try to mess up.
     

    Longtooth

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    Start with Polymer and then move to aluminum or steel.
     

    gundog571

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    I have used a 5D tactical jig and have not had any problems or messed up one lower. Follow the directions and it is not hard at all.
     

    Daezee

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    I have the 5D Tactical jig. My jig has been used to make at least 7. The first one was a bare non anodized no markings lower. It was a "practice" lower given me by a friend to learn on before doing my "Mattel" lower...it never had parts installed and was never put together with an upper to see if it worked.

    My 2nd one made was my "Mattel" receiver. It was the 2nd one made with the jig. At round number 330 it started firing when I'd release the trigger after having just fired it. I replaced all the fire control group parts and it functioned OK for about 100 rounds without the "doubling". It then began to double and fire even when on safe and/or when putting the safety off. Tried replacing fire control parts multiple times, but it would still fire when on safe. At that point I stripped the receiver and will destroy it the next time I go to my son in law's shop with his cutting tools. I have no firm idea of what went wrong...may of got loose in the jig. I did drill the fire control group pin holes in one pass, as the instructions say you can do, but on subsequent lowers the pin holes were drilled from one side half way through and the flipped the lower and drilled the holes from the other side so as to not leave burrs on the side where the drill bit exited the lower. I now have another "Mattel" with some differences in the engraving and when anodized (this one was anodized after all markings including my serial number were applied), including a serial number that was never assigned to any U.S. maker of M16's, to complete.

    A receiver was done by a friend while I watched and instructed. Perfect.

    A receiver was done by another friend while I watched and instructed. Told him to go slow and make shallow cuts. He went too fast too deep and broke the milling bit. Bought me a new bit from 5D. Finished milling. Perfect.

    Next I did my Taiwanese T91 lower. Perfect. I've now fired 979 rounds with it and no problems. It is mated to a Wolf T91 type upper with imported T91 parts of buttstock, pistol grip and sights added to make a near clone of the Taiwanese Type 91 gas piston AR.

    Loaned the jig to an acquaintance. In turn he sent me a duckbill flash hider and a nice no-trapdoor earlier M16 buttstock for my "Mattel". He had no problems.

    You can bet I'll go SLOW and check the tightness of the jig after each cut when I do my replacement Mattel.

    I tried applying aluminum black to the areas where I milled the receiver, but it didn't take very well even though I thought I'd cleaned the metal well with degreaser. I suspect the cutting oil I used was hard to remove completely. This time I'm just gonna apply a light coat of oil to the bare aluminum (it's hidden inside when the AR is assembled) and let it go.
     

    Jdcujo

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    I have the 5D Tactical jig. My jig has been used to make at least 7. The first one was a bare non anodized no markings lower. It was a "practice" lower given me by a friend to learn on before doing my "Mattel" lower...it never had parts installed and was never put together with an upper to see if it worked.

    My 2nd one made was my "Mattel" receiver. It was the 2nd one made with the jig. At round number 330 it started firing when I'd release the trigger after having just fired it. I replaced all the fire control group parts and it functioned OK for about 100 rounds without the "doubling". It then began to double and fire even when on safe and/or when putting the safety off. Tried replacing fire control parts multiple times, but it would still fire when on safe. At that point I stripped the receiver and will destroy it the next time I go to my son in law's shop with his cutting tools. I have no firm idea of what went wrong...may of got loose in the jig. I did drill the fire control group pin holes in one pass, as the instructions say you can do, but on subsequent lowers the pin holes were drilled from one side half way through and the flipped the lower and drilled the holes from the other side so as to not leave burrs on the side where the drill bit exited the lower. I now have another "Mattel" with some differences in the engraving and when anodized (this one was anodized after all markings including my serial number were applied), including a serial number that was never assigned to any U.S. maker of M16's, to complete.

    A receiver was done by a friend while I watched and instructed. Perfect.

    A receiver was done by another friend while I watched and instructed. Told him to go slow and make shallow cuts. He went too fast too deep and broke the milling bit. Bought me a new bit from 5D. Finished milling. Perfect.

    Next I did my Taiwanese T91 lower. Perfect. I've now fired 979 rounds with it and no problems. It is mated to a Wolf T91 type upper with imported T91 parts of buttstock, pistol grip and sights added to make a near clone of the Taiwanese Type 91 gas piston AR.

    Loaned the jig to an acquaintance. In turn he sent me a duckbill flash hider and a nice no-trapdoor earlier M16 buttstock for my "Mattel". He had no problems.

    You can bet I'll go SLOW and check the tightness of the jig after each cut when I do my replacement Mattel.

    I tried applying aluminum black to the areas where I milled the receiver, but it didn't take very well even though I thought I'd cleaned the metal well with degreaser. I suspect the cutting oil I used was hard to remove completely. This time I'm just gonna apply a light coat of oil to the bare aluminum (it's hidden inside when the AR is assembled) and let it go.


    Milled too far out of the bottom area . Found out the hard way myself lol
     

    Daezee

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    Oh, I would go to my son in law’s as he had a router, drill press, and vise I could use.
     

    Jdcujo

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    Honestly the p80 lower with ez jig is pretty doable and I am far from that mechanically inclined. Variable speed trim router is actually recommended vs drill press.

    OTE="Sgump, post: 513760, member: 12696"]
    Thanks for feed back seems like iam not ready to take one on for now
    [/QUOTE]
     

    Light82

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    I have made several polys from a company called EParmory and they were very easy to make on a smaller drill press and work great. They even come with a sticker template to use as a guide when drilling. I have also tried to make an aluminum one on a drill press, and I wouldn’t recommend it. However all this was on a benchtop press, so that might make a big difference to have a larger setup. I wouldnt do an aluminum on a smaller press ever again.
     
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