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How do you all sharpen your chainsaws

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  • FrommerStop

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    Raining today in Northwest Florida so took the time to sharpen a chainsaw chain. I am using these round stones that go on a dremel tool like below. I leave the chain on the bar to sharpen it.

    s-l500chain saw.jpg

    Besides a steel hand file, are there any other practical tools. The Dremel tools seem to be carborundum paste rather than diamond and they quickly wear out. Is there any place to get real diamond tools that will last longer.
     

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    Jhunter

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    I use the Stihl sharpening kit with their round files. I am only capable of scuffing them up where they will cut again. The resharpened chains never cut like new. This is noticeable only on larger diameter hardwoods. Not noticeable on small limbs
     

    MauserLarry

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    Raining today in Northwest Florida so took the time to sharpen a chainsaw chain. I am using these round stones that go on a dremel tool like below. I leave the chain on the bar to sharpen it.

    View attachment 80573

    Besides a steel hand file, are there any other practical tools. The Dremel tools seem to be carborundum paste rather than diamond and they quickly wear out. Is there any place to get real diamond tools that will last longer.

    Find your local Stihl dealer, they have an electric sharpener that hooks to your vehicle battery and the sharpening bits to go with it. As you're using a Dremel I don't know if the tools have the same shank.
     
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    FrommerStop

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    That's neat, I guess you could get an inverter to use if you were in the woods and needed a sharpening.
    I have something like that which I purchased from harbor fright(spelling is ok) and it screwed up the saw teeth. There is a reason that the files are round. That makes a 90 Degree angle cut on the one that I have. I was thinking of using it as some sort of cut off saw.
    There is a stihl deeler near me. I sharpen my saws in the house since my woods is my own particular 8 acres. If one is careful with the saw it will go for a while without sharpening. Mainly avoid hitting the ground. I remember one day by my fence line I ran into the remnants of multiple rolls of unused steel slab mesh that had likely being laying overgrown for more than 20 years and that sure did a number on my chain.
    My biggest saw is only a 20 inch Husq rancher 455 and the others are lighter and smaller. i do have medium live oak to take down. When I get it down I likely plunge cut to saw up the trunk.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Proper sized hand file with the proper handle. Keep it slightly oiled. As you push the file through the teeth,make sure to cut the same angle on every tooth. Turn the file as it goes through the tooth,it will cut better.
    After the teeth are sharp,use a small flat file to cut down the rakers. Cut them down appropriately for the power of your saw. This will allow your saw to "dig in" and take a deeper bite.
    (I cut 12+ chord of wood every year when living in Maine.) --- SAWMAN
     
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    reel_crazy

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    https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/?rev=BVSpotlights

    is what i use .. essentially 2 files 1 round for the teeth throats the flat one for the chipper tops or whatever they are called .. files are the best for touch ups .. grinders for baseline (assuming all the angles can be precisely set and maintained..

    when filing consistency is the key...

    mount bar in vise
    tighten chain to where it is somewhat hard to pull around with gloved hands
    give each tooth 2-3 maybe 4 full forward strokes , lift and bring back between strokes
    mark first tooth with chalk, crayon, something so you know when to stop
    reverse bar and do the same on the opposing teeth ..

    you can do it ok in the field just a bit harder to maintain consistency

    use a height gauge if needed and use flat file on the chippers ..

    if the chain hits anything metal buy a new one ..

    if it hits your knee ya got yourself a pair of designer jeans
     

    FrommerStop

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    https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/?rev=BVSpotlights

    is what i use .. essentially 2 files 1 round for the teeth throats the flat one for the chipper tops or whatever they are called .. files are the best for touch ups .. grinders for baseline (assuming all the angles can be precisely set and maintained..

    when filing consistency is the key...

    mount bar in vise
    tighten chain to where it is somewhat hard to pull around with gloved hands
    give each tooth 2-3 maybe 4 full forward strokes , lift and bring back between strokes
    mark first tooth with chalk, crayon, something so you know when to stop
    reverse bar and do the same on the opposing teeth ..

    you can do it ok in the field just a bit harder to maintain consistency

    use a height gauge if needed and use flat file on the chippers ..

    if the chain hits anything metal buy a new one ..

    if it hits your knee ya got yourself a pair of designer jeans
    i will study this from your link. Maintaining angles is certainly a problem for me.
     

    FrommerStop

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    i will study this from your link. Maintaining angles is certainly a problem for me.


    Looks like I need a different for each different chain.
    There are now a lot more Stihl stores in my area than there used to be so I will stop by one. There are also some cheaper chinese knock offs I see.
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    STIHL 2 in 1 Filing Guide for 1/4 inch pitch Chain # 5605 750 4306
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    wildrider666

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    I remember my first chain filing attempt: I was too smart to read instruction, heck just a file and an angle to follow. I did it mounted and was holding the saw with my feet, a bit awkward but I filed the crap out of it. Jumped into the next deep cut and the saw the prettiest curved line. Thought "I" staryed at a bad angle. Second cut same big curve cut. Thats how you screw up a Chain sharpening one sid mor than the other.

    I've always counted file strokes since then. You guys with dremel type bits must hace good eyes to count RPM to keep the L/R equal. Lol
    I think the mounted grinding disk with set angles and sharpening depth. Is nice, and you might even be able to salvage a curve cutting chain.

    Q: i read the PDF instructions from one of the Links on a Table mounted unit. It didn't say anything about the Chain's Depth Gauge which controls bite depth. Does the side of the grinding disk take it down simultaneously or is that still a seperate filing task? Thanks.
     

    Zeroed in

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    ^^^ That's exactly what I do ^^^. Saves time and money. And if you're a little on the cheap side or a semi-hoarder, take the dull chain to your local small engine repair and have them re-sharpen the dull chains. They don't charge all that much.
     

    FLT

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    The mower shop I use will sharpen mine for $7.50 each when I take them 2 at the time. They cut about as well as they did new. If I don’t make a mistake and cut into something I shouldn’t , 3 chains last me about a year.
     

    FrommerStop

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    In the pace, fl I have used Andersens. It seems the shops grind off a lot more than I do and the life of the chain is less. Some chain and bar combinations wear and eventually the chain gets too long.
    It seems that the stihl file guide is one certain way and you must factor into $50 dollars just how many chains that money would pay to sharpen at a shop, but also the time and trouble of getting down there vs time to do sharpen the chain.
     

    SAWMAN

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    . . . . "cut about as well as they did new". Every wood cutter that I know will sharpen the chain AFTER it is installed new. Cut down the rakers also. Before usage.
    A new chain does not cut well. I was taught about cutting wood from an old "in the deep woods of Maine" woodcutter. I'm talking when the two man team jumped from the horse drawn wood sleigh with just their lunch bucket,a two man crosscut saw,a ax,several wedges,and a peavey or cantdog.
    This is even before the first 4 stroke 75lb saw. This was my father-in-laws first job when he came back from WWII.
    This man could sharpen a saw using the technique and tools that I listed above. My wife and I would cut his firewood and he would keep his saws sharp for me. ---- SAWMAN
     
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    FLT

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    I have no doubt, but I only cut the trees that fall on my fire breaks and drive ways. Factory chains work fine for my limited use.
     

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