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Let’s talk trigger pull

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  • Murfpcola

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    I have been doing some dry fire practice in my garage with several different platforms trying to work on my trigger pull and just looking for others’ perspective. The platforms I have tried lately are stock Glock 19, stock first gen M&P9, M&P9 2.0 with flat faced forward set seat Apex trigger and a Sig p320 compact with an Apex trigger. Even though the Glock seems to be the most heavy and/or crisp I seem to be the most steady with it. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

    I don’t have a trigger gauge and have zero formal training but plan to change that soon. I have been shooting close to 30 years with friends and family so don’t lack experience but you don’t know what you don’t know. Looking forward to this discussion
     

    bpreston

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    I personally don’t have much experience with any platform other than Glock, but I have tried several different combinations of parts. From minus connectors, to an apex trigger kit, to heavier trigger springs. What I finally settled on was a stock connector with a heavier trigger spring. It helps the trigger reset quicker and still offers a nice trigger press. Little bit of take up, wall, and then break with maybe a little mush, but not very bad at all. I think putting time behind whatever setup you have is the most important thing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    RussSurfs

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    I have some experience with both the M&P’s and the Sig 320. Both were acceptable right out of the box. The weren’t great but nothing you can’t train to shoot well with. I was new to shooting and the M&P was my first 9mm handgun. I changed to the Apex trigger because I read that it would make the trigger much better. It did and I liked it a lot better - but it didn’t make me shoot a lot better. Only dry and live fire practice helped with that. I have the 320 compact. It felt like the factory trigger had a bit of a “catch” right before it breaks so I put the apex trigger in it. It didn’t feel like it made near as much improvement on the 320 as it did on the M&P’s.
     

    Murfpcola

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    Thanks Wildrider. That is a great reference.
     

    FrommerStop

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    For the glock I am not familiar with the minus connectors. I currently when I change it put what IIRC a 3.5 lb connector that used to be called a 2.5.
     

    SAWMAN

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    I change my connectors to the "minus" or 3.5#. Then take my time doing a $.25+ trigger job. No other OEM parts are changed. This will bring the trigger let off to between 4.5 and 5lbs.
    Then practice,practice,practice. After a time . . you can pretty much learn the feel and "stage" the trigger.
    This,for accuracy and not for SD. --- SAWMAN
     

    FrommerStop

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    For SD on the glock trigger that I have not practiced is shooting from reset. Some semiautos will do it and others will not.
     

    FrommerStop

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    I was out today trying out a replacement RMR along with new barrel on a G19 and I see that further work will be needed on the trigger. Next is look at the firing pin block safety, striker, spring, and channel. That particular G19 has the worst pull of any of my glocks. Trigger bar and connector were changed out and I have a smoother pull, but it is literally still not adequate. I think the gun is accurate, but I am quite obviously opening up the group even though I was using a sand bag. I can see the dot moving as I slowly pull that long trigger. I was using 115 grain S&B FMJ ammo that seems to be loaded hot judging from the recoil.
    I realized a glock is not a tuned 1911. I had a mild sinus headache that was not helping either. i will get some of the fancy things like an improved striker and a polished safety striker block and I will look at springs. I really do not like changing springs out. My testing of striker springs is that it must be able to set off harder primers like one sees on some military ammo and perhaps wolf 9mm.
    I just ordered two K rounds of it because it has really gone down in price and I will use it as training ammo.
     
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    SAWMAN

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    Dont forget the proper amount of lube. Every part of my Glocks get a small dab of GREASE and not oil. All the parts that move together. Every place that was polished during the $.25+ trigger job. Other places also.
    Remember,a quality gun grease in extremely small amounts,goes a long way when your gun starts to heat up. --- SAWMAN
     

    FrommerStop

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    Dont forget the proper amount of lube. Every part of my Glocks get a small dab of GREASE and not oil. All the parts that move together. Every place that was polished during the $.25+ trigger job. Other places also.
    Remember,a quality gun grease in extremely small amounts,goes a long way when your gun starts to heat up. --- SAWMAN
    Since you are at PRPC I was having a discussion with Capt. Bob another member and he was relating conversations with Glock armorers. They told him a glock is not like 1911 and it does not need very in lubrication. But I am going to with caution follow your advice. Instead of paying attention to just metal to metal surfaces I will take good look at all surfaces. Especially the connector.

    Here is video clip I am studying at the moment.
    [video]https://www.full30.com/watch/MDE1NzQz/how-glock-triggers-work-and-reset[/video]
     
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    FrommerStop

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    Don’t use grease in a Glock. Stick with a quality CLP like Breakfree or a quality lube like Slip2000 gun lube.
    Thanks.
    I will look at the Slip2000. I want something that put a thin film, more like a tiny smear.
    On any gun if there is grit around wet and viscous lubricants will hold the grit and this mixture can act like a valve grinding compound and so your advice is good.
    I am looking at this glock I see that the trigger-bar kit I installed did put a flat trigger in that seems to have less leverage, but a shorter throw. I think I should put the OEM curved trigger back in, keep the polished bar and check out the sliding surfaces on the connector.
    I can try a known 5 pound striker spring and go to at least a 6 lb trigger spring.
     

    wildrider666

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    I use light amount of grease on slide/frame rails, oil the rest. If its a carry gun (especially IWB) exposed to sweat, salt, humidity: you need to have protection and wipe down/refresh often. I found out the hard way with G23 pitted frame guides for slide and rust in rear night sight/slide seam. Contact friction surfaces are a must lube but leaving the rest dry in our climate is a invite for corrosion. IMHO
     

    wildrider666

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    ^^^^ Above illustration is fine but folks should not ignore "are enough in most conditions". Since my Glock pitted and rusted, lubrication minimums failed. Since I started lubrication as I mentioned and increased frequency from monthly to weekly the problem has not resurfaced.
    Use what fits your needs.
     

    Murfpcola

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    What methods do people use to remove pre-travel on a Glock? I traded into a Gen 5 34 that has had “trigger work” done. It has been passed around the forum like a community bicycle so no real way to know who did it and what was done. This 34 has pretty much no take up as opposed to my other glocks. I sure don’t want a gun that goes off on its own.
     

    donr101395

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    What methods do people use to remove pre-travel on a Glock? I traded into a Gen 5 34 that has had “trigger work” done. It has been passed around the forum like a community bicycle so no real way to know who did it and what was done. This 34 has pretty much no take up as opposed to my other glocks. I sure don’t want a gun that goes off on its own.
    I don't, I leave the triggers alone or at most add a flat trigger that uses a stock trigger bar. Every Glock I've had go full auto in class has had one of two things in common; either a 25 cents trigger job (poorly executed by someone without a basic knowledge) or a ghost 3.5 connector.

    Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
     

    FrommerStop

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    What methods do people use to remove pre-travel on a Glock? I traded into a Gen 5 34 that has had “trigger work” done. It has been passed around the forum like a community bicycle so no real way to know who did it and what was done. This 34 has pretty much no take up as opposed to my other glocks. I sure don’t want a gun that goes off on its own.
    If I could get a deal on it and assuming the frame has not been buggered up, simply put in OEM parts and make it into a real glock.
     

    Murfpcola

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    It has a Ghost connector and I think they added a screw into the trigger mechanism housing limiting the forward movement. Found the whole factory trigger assembly on EBay for $30
    C2A482A6-C61F-4CAA-956A-4C8F6A9749FF.jpg
     

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