HD Tactical

Removing Red Loctite...my idea actually worked.

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  • Fanner50

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    So I'm one of those guys who thinks if one drop of Loctite is good, ten drops are better, lol. I had Loctited a riser to a Primary Arms red dot sight to use on an AR. I sold the AR and no longer needed the riser on the red dot. Trying to figure out how to apply heat without destroying the red dot, I wondered how using a Soldering Iron on the bolt would work. I didn't have one, so I ordered a cheap TRAVOL soldering iron from Amazon. I tried it out today, and IT WORKED!!!! It took several tries, and I really heated up the bolt head with the tip of the soldering iron for a long time on the third try, and it loosened right up and I got the bolt removed with no problems. Everyone else probably knows this little trick, but I'm a little slow lol so I thought I would post this to help out anyone like me. :). Happy, happy.

    UPDATE: It is Blue Loctite, not Red. My bad.
     
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    stage20

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    Sounds like a good tip. I'll remember. But....I wouldn't have used red. Too strong for the application imo
     

    kendive

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    Sounds like a good tip. I'll remember. But....I wouldn't have used red. Too strong for the application imo

    I have Fred Goeske's 1 1/4" Wheel Spacers on my F150 Truck and I don't use red loctite on them... Blue is good enough. Never had an issue. Those things are built like a tank the best of the best :)
     

    Fanner50

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    I have Fred Goeske's 1 1/4" Wheel Spacers on my F150 Truck and I don't use red loctite on them... Blue is good enough. Never had an issue. Those things are built like a tank the best of the best :)

    Looking at the bottle again it is Blue 242. The container is mostly red, I guess that's why I said red, but it is Blue #242. My mistake there, but that soldering iron worked perfect for loosening the small bolt. That Blue is hard enough to get off. Thanks for the advise guys.
     
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    FrommerStop

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    IIRC somewhere there are charts that give the temperatures that each particular loctite forumation is good to. I normally use the blue, especially if I want to remove it in the future.
     

    stage20

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    There are 2 different greens. One is lower than the blue I believe. I put too much red on a cam bolt one time in a motor and broke the bolt offnin the cam. Had the machine shop drill it.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Somewhere on the red Loc-Tite container I believe the word " PERMANENT" is written.
    That,in itself,should give prospective users a "hint" as to its usage. --- SAWMAN
     

    kendive

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    Somewhere on the red Loc-Tite container I believe the word " PERMANENT" is written.
    That,in itself,should give prospective users a "hint" as to its usage. --- SAWMAN

    I have used rocksett on some QD's for my YHM Ti-QD .30 Can... Does not say it's permanent... But I know that Red stuff is strong but also not permanent I have removed stuff before set with it...





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    SAWMAN

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    Then . . . I believe it comes in the quart size with a spray bottle top. --- SAWMAN
     

    stage20

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    The yellow is what you gotta look out for. Gm uses it on brake caliper carrier bolts. I've bent a 6ftnpiece of pipe trying to bust it loose lol.
     

    stage20

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    Heat helps with the yellow. At the time I didn't have any. Soldering iron may have worked but it would have taken a while, lol
     

    G-rat

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    heat guns do wonderful things... so much so, i have 2!
     

    kendive

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    heat guns do wonderful things... so much so, i have 2!

    Yes they do. I have several and use them also for loads to test my generators. Each can draw 1500 watts or 12.5 amps at 120VAC. Harbor freight cheap load banks for small gensets. I have a 240VAC 3k to 6k shop heater to load up my big Mil MEP Generator. Makes a great hand warmer in the winter. :)

    Sorry for side tracking the thread.





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    Chuck32571

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    Red Loctite

    So I'm one of those guys who thinks if one drop of Loctite is good, ten drops are better, lol. I had Loctited a riser to a Primary Arms red dot sight to use on an AR. I sold the AR and no longer needed the riser on the red dot. Trying to figure out how to apply heat without destroying the red dot, I wondered how using a Soldering Iron on the bolt would work. I didn't have one, so I ordered a cheap TRAVOL soldering iron from Amazon. I tried it out today, and IT WORKED!!!! It took several tries, and I really heated up the bolt head with the tip of the soldering iron for a long time on the third try, and it loosened right up and I got the bolt removed with no problems. Everyone else probably knows this little trick, but I'm a little slow lol so I thought I would post this to help out anyone like me. :). Happy, happy.

    UPDATE: It is Blue Loctite, not Red. My bad.

    I've used the soldering trick for red Loctite in the past. It takes around 15 minutes of holding the tip of the iron against the screw/bolt before enough heat is generated to break the bond. Blue Loctite should break without heat for a torx or hex head but if its a straight slot screw head heat is a must.
     

    SAWMAN

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    I have pretty much resolved myself to using clear fingernail polish only. It will resist vibration in scope rings/scope base installation and most everything gun related. For me . . . even muzzle device installs. --- SAWMAN
     
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