Re. 22-250Rem . . What I Learned . . .

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  • TK5o

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    Do you have to recoat the barrel over time? If so how long does the coating usually last?
     

    Jester896

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    You are going to get a velocity increase without changing the powder charge.
    We use the ceramic media in a tumbler that is dedicated for that only...that stuff is messy. Kroil with get it out of the barrel pretty good...I don't go through the trouble of doing barrels myself. Although SAWMAN's method is the "Old School" way :D.
    That is something I think about doing for any other rifle except my .260. I should consider it for my 6.5WSM and the .22-250.. I have just about stopped using 10rd AI mags and only using 5rd ones and let it cool some while reloading.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Negative.
    Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) is actually imbedded in the bbl and bullets. It will not come off/out.
    I suppose that you could recoat but I never have,and I have never heard it reccomended.
    Every bullet that goes down the bbl re "streaks" it with moly. Does it buildup ?? Not to my knowledge. My accuracy has never been degraded. --- SAWMAN
     

    SAWMAN

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    Negative.
    Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) is actually imbedded in the bbl and bullets. It will not come off/out.
    I suppose that you could recoat but I never have,and I have never heard it reccomended.
    Every bullet that goes down the bbl re "streaks" it with moly. Does it build up ?? Not to my knowledge. My accuracy has never been degraded. --- SAWMAN
     

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    SAWMAN

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    This is the stuff that I use in the bore. To do this RIGHT,it takes about an hour. That includes super cleaning your bbl. IT MUST BE CLEAN for the moly to embed. --- SAWMAN
    ADDED:Zoom in and read the jar lid.
    CAUTION: When using this process in your bbl,do not allow it to get into your chamber. If it imbeds in there, during fireing your brass will not stick to the chamber walls and it could increase case head thrust. I'm not talking a blown up gun,just a little more thrust. If you are not loading "on the edge",no big worry.
    I simply close the action with a piece of fired brass in the chamber. The cleaning rod will go into thd brass and not in the chamber.
     

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    Jester896

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    I have never embedded a barrel. What is in my barrel comes from the bullet passing. Kroil is the only thing that takes all of the black it leaves in the barrel out. Patch it good with Kroil first then follow normal routing...I do use a nylon brush so that may make it harder to get out. You are correct one it is on the bullet stainless steel pins won't clean it off :D
     

    Jhunter

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    I have always had a velocity decrease when using Moly coated bullets. Its biggest advantage is lowering pressures, but the downside of lower pressure is slower velocity. Adding powder to create the same velocity is why I quit shooting moly coated bullets.
     

    FrommerStop

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    This is the stuff that I use in the bore. To do this RIGHT,it takes about an hour. That includes super cleaning your bbl. IT MUST BE CLEAN for the moly to embed. --- SAWMAN
    ADDED:Zoom in and read the jar lid.

    Alan at the Ole Frontier Gunshop use to and maybe still uses coating process for steel that uses MoS2 bonded to a pigment in the place of bluing. The steel must be completely free of oil and grease, but used heat IIRC to bonded it on at maybe 300 F. It was applied with a high pressure sprayer. It was Semi-lubricating.
    rmethods apply just the MoS2 which should be extremely thin. I would guess just the thickness of molecules.

    Does the coat resist rusting as would chrome or nitride?

    It sounds like a good idea for something like a bolt action 22-250. Develop the loads with a chronograph. First do your baseline loads in an uncoated barrel and do the coating and see what happens to velocity and pressure.
     

    SAWMAN

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    I did that some years ago. All equal accept the process. I have lost all my data in the move some years ago but did this to a 22-250,220Swift,243Win,308Win,7mm Rem mag,and even a muzzleloader (it makes them MUCH easier to load and clean).
    My accuracy was good,the vels up,and super easy to clean. I also did this to a 30-378Wby Mag and I feel that it saved the throat when burning 115 and 125grs of powder pushing bullets between 3700 and 3950fps. --- SAWMAN
     

    FrommerStop

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    I did that some years ago. All equal accept the process. I have lost all my data in the move some years ago but did this to a 22-250,220Swift,243Win,308Win,7mm Rem mag,and even a muzzleloader (it makes them MUCH easier to load and clean).
    My accuracy was good,the vels up,and super easy to clean. I also did this to a 30-378Wby Mag and I feel that it saved the throat when burning 115 and 125grs of powder pushing bullets between 3700 and 3950fps. --- SAWMAN

    Very informative to read what you have done. Real knowledge to share makes you a valuable person for sure.

    On a muzzle loader it might also help with cleaning?
     

    SAWMAN

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    My T/C Omega (50cal) has been moly coated. I have also moly coated the Power Belt bullets (245gr AeroTip) that I use in it. Both bullet and belt.
    Easy to load,easy to clean. Never checked the vels,but with three Triple 7,50gr pellets,it hammers on both ends. --- SAWMAN
     

    SAWMAN

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    Even at this point in my life . . . i'm still trying to know as much as my hero . . . jj (oneshot).
    Probably wont ever get there but it has been fun tryin'. --- SAWMAN
     

    Jester896

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    I have always had a velocity decrease when using Moly coated bullets. Its biggest advantage is lowering pressures, but the downside of lower pressure is slower velocity. Adding powder to create the same velocity is why I quit shooting moly coated bullets.

    your right...not sure what I was thinking when I typed that...like it makes the bullet respond like it's lighter so you would have to increase the charge
     

    FLT

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    35/40 years ago the 22-250 was my favorite caliber, but then I got my hands on a 243 that would make a mediocre shooter look good. I still have a sako chambered 22-250 , I think I’ll break it out of the safe and try some old old hand loads in it and maybe a box or two of the fancy new bullets that they make for them now.
     

    SAWMAN

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    I really like the 22-250 and the platform that I chose to shoot it in.
    BUT - - -> If I were younger and looking for a varmint/deer/hog gun,I would take a close look at the 243Win chambering.
    There are quite a few reasons to choose this cartridge IMO. Some of which are:
    * I would opt for a 26-28" bbl (VELOCITY)
    * It would be a single shot for it's short OAL. They are typically 2-3inches shorter than a bolt gun with the same bbl length.
    * Choice of bullets/loads - -> a 55 - 60gr st 3800fps+ . . OR . . a 100gr+ for deer,hogs,antelope, mulies,etc. I had sports kill close range moose with 243's. Great no lead bullets available now. Plus NosPart's.
    * Cheap or free brass. Many choices.
    * Easy to load for. Tons of great powders.
    * +more. --- SAWMAN
     
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    I'm a little bored, so I set a couple targets out at 200 yards, for an un-scientific comparison of the .243 vs 22-250. If the wind dies down a little, and I get anything on paper, I'll take images of the results. If the test doesn't go so well, I'll make up a lie.

    Ruger #1B .243 (first year gun)

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    Ruger #1V 22-250

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    some test images

    200 yards, 6" targets, sand bags, 9x bargain scopes, gusty wind, untrained shooter, 6 shots each gun.

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    SAWMAN

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    Love them darker stocks like on that #1B.
    My first #1H had a stock kinda like that. It actually was so dark and well grained that I called Ruger about it. I ended up sending them a pic of it and they stated that there must have been a "mixup" and that if I would send it back,they would send me a stock that "was supposed to be on the gun".
    I responded . . . "no thank you,I can live with it".
    I had a moose hunter that fell in love with the gun and offered me $1150. for it (in 1989) so I sold it to him.
    Do you know that you can set those guns to just extract,or extract and eject,and at what velocity ?? --- SAWMAN
     

    SAWMAN

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    For moose and black bear I set my guns to extract and eject full power. For the coyote,woodchuck,and crow application they just gently extracted so I could grab and pocket them.
    My #1B chambered in now,45-90Express,had a spring change and it will shoot the brass about 10 feet in the air. I had one hit me on the cheek bone and it drew a little blood.
    This gun was going to Alaska with me . . . but we never made it. --- SAWMAN
     
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