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  • bjstone193

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    Viking 1204 has a point. :), I've decided that I need to
    Perfect my skills with what I have. I do want a high grade
    .22 within the next year though.

    I sold a .17 on here about a year ago. Wish I'd have kept
    It now.

    Thanks everyone for your input.
     

    gerald granger

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    Not in my opinion. I own many 22lr and be damn if I’ll spend $600.00 on one. I own. an S&W AR-15/22 and that is the most enjoyable to shoot, but the most accurate is my Marlin mod. 60.
     

    FrommerStop

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    Not in my opinion. I own many 22lr and be damn if I’ll spend $600.00 on one. I own. an S&W AR-15/22 and that is the most enjoyable to shoot, but the most accurate is my Marlin mod. 60.
    If I was really into accurate target shooting and my skill merited I see spending more $600 just on optics. Any future .22s I buy will be conversion kits for my fighting rifles or look alikes to my fighting rifles and would be used for training purposes.
     

    Big Shrek

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    I'll remind everyone that all shooting requires is a properly functioning MOA rifle & Consistant Ammo.
    Everything else is the shooter.

    It's why Annie Oakley could take a Marlin .22 lever action with Iron Sights and shoot better than most folks these days with bolt-actions & scopes. Knowing your weapon INTIMATELY doesn't mean taking it out to dinner and getting to second base...it means shooting it so often you know it's habits, what ammo it loves, what ammo it doesn't, how wind affects your shots, being able to judge yardage as you walk, and aim small-miss small.

    Biggest problem I notice with shooters these days is they don't settle down and take time to properly AIM. Lotta Spray & Pray out there...those that settle down and make each shot count are the ones who are going to do well at hunting & target shooting.

    So...GO SHOOT DAILY!
    Squirrel, rabbit, crow, coyote, knotholes, targets, everything up to and including Asprin tablets thrown into the air!! (It's hard at first, then it gets easier)
     

    Big Shrek

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    ^^^^^^^ Example of multiple malfunctions requiring mag removal with the M-100.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WX-VR1BeQUo

    I looked a one before the AWB hit, didn't like it. Some may love them. Different strokes......

    He's got at least four issues with what he was doing with that M110.
    1. Using Winchester Standard Velocity Ammo...it requires HIGH VELOCITY...likes Hyper even better.
    2. As soon as he said Cheapo Remington Ammo, I knew it was Golden Bullets...worst .22 ammo ever made...that alone can cause exactly the problems he was having.
    3. They like being run DRY. Oil is to be used very sparingly...as Oil + Heat + Pressure +burnt powder = GLUE.
    4. That didn't look like the correct recoil spring...needed a closer look there, really. That alone could have caused all his issues.

    And the big one...making sure you wind the mag spring ENOUGH...as they get older, spring gets weaker and you have to wind it more. Eventually it has to be replaced...about every 50K rounds or 20+ years ;)

    I'd like to meet up with that guy, fiddle with his Calico a bit, and use some very reliable HV & HYPER-V ammo in it.
    Bet it'd cycle like mine does real fast!
     

    wildrider666

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    He's got at least four issues with what he was doing with that M110. ...........

    I'd like to meet up with that guy, fiddle with his Calico a bit, and use some very reliable HV & HYPER-V ammo in it.
    Bet it'd cycle like mine does real fast!

    On the Vid, the guy said he's had it for a long time but hasn't shot it much due to the problems. Your experience with that gun could provide corrective action he would appreciate. You could Post the info in the Vid comment section or PM via his channel. No harm in offering advice. If I had a "paper weight" gun, I'd want to know how to fix it.
     

    Boardfeet

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    My Ruger 10/22. Had fun building it from an old gun I've had for over 30 years. Accuracy is way better than it was out of the box. Still not a Olympic worthy gun but the cost is way less and I built it myself. Polished the old receiver. Sent the trigger off to Blackstone for a trigger job, Carbon fiber barrel, sparrow suppressor, Boyd Stock. Wish I had gone with a stainless fluted barrel. I like the weight of the carobon fiber barrel but I think the SS barrel would be more accurate. May end up selling this barrel and getting an 18" SS barrel anyway.
    Also has a skeletonized extended bolt finger grip and a competition return spring. Bolt was sent off to be polished and tapered back. They also true the bolt face to the barrel and replaced the extractor and pinned the firing pin. Extended magazine release.
     

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    Zeroed in

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    Most all .22's shoot decent, the problem comes from not "properly" cleaning out the lead that gets embedded in the rifling. Use a good lead remover after each shooting outing, it'll probably tighten your groups. What about a Henry Silver Boy or their Golden Boy? American made and supposed to be very accurate. But whatever you decide, from keeping your Marlin (clean out the lead) or buying a different make. The main thing is keeping it lightweight. Just remember, the heavier it is, the heavier it'll feel like after walking in the woods with it. It'll be a killer on the shoulders. I've been getting injections in both mine, plus physical therapy (physical pain) and nerve burns. So I know the pain you're most likely dealing with. Good Luck
     

    Big Shrek

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    Yepp. Doing a search of Calico .22's info would find it also on RimfireCentral ;)

    RFC & GunandGame are two of the best sources on Rimfire repairs anyone could ever find...
    RFC in particular has a wealth of info that's categorized for ease of finding, and a great search engine.

    And strangely enough John Stimson's Hi Standard pages give a master's level course on HS pistols & rifles,
    and everything one can do to a semi-auto or revolver to help it to work better apply not just to the HS's,
    but also to ANY rimfire :)

    Yes, it's a ton of info to read between the three sites, (speed-reading helps) but by the time one completes
    either the Stimson site or RFC's Brand-specific sections (especially the Marlin & Ruger ones),
    they're at a whole new level of Repair technique!

    When I got back into guns, I first read the Marlin section complete...nearly every post at that time.
    Then asked about stuff that wasn't on there...then learned a bunch from Trial and Error...
    it's like learning about Motorcycle rebuilding...at first it's a TON of stuff to learn...then it's all
    little pieces of skill upgrading until you're efficient and competent...then ya start getting GOOD at it ;)

    Like...I've got a broken trigger guard, which year model fits it??
    And you match up your T/G to the three possibilities...basic stuff :)
    Marlin 60-3.jpg

    Later on you get advanced knowledge from all the research you've done...
    like which action sets can be exchanged & which can't...
    2be273ca932354638d0ccdf0e6921537--encouragement-sort.jpg

    it's all just a fun learning process!!
    Much like rebuilding old Triumph motorcycles,
    the more ya do, the more ya learn!!
    No substitute for actual wrenching & studying!
     

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    Big Shrek

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    Viking, after reading your comment I realized I have a marlin 925m that I've never shot. Lol

    Ye Gods!

    Now that's a nice little rifle :)
    I've got a 25MN myself! Really loves 40-, 45-, and 50-grain .22WMR ammo!!
    25MN.jpg

    One minor change you can make to those and get a lot more precision out of 'em...
    make sure it's got TWO stock/action screws. Most of that line do, but a few early on didn't.
    If it doesn't, usually you have to drill a deeper hole in the stock at the proper location & add the screw.
    The hole is already tapped into the action by Marlin.
    Once that is determined, you simply pillar bed the stock for perfect action mating every time.
    Usually that'll shrink your group size due to Consistancy of stock/action mating.
    Sometimes it's a small difference, other times it makes the rifle a whole lot better!

    Another thing is to simply CLEAN the trigger assembly so that there is zero
    dirt/dust/rust/etc...it's really simple to take apart & put back together.
    Most folks don't take the trigger apart, so sometimes RUST/gunk
    get in the area behind those screws you see that hold the trigger & sear.
    So, being careful not to loose the springs, unscrew the first flathead, remove trigger SLOWLY,
    that way the spring doesn't shoot off under the desk or some other impossible place...
    Clean the trigger, polish a bit if you like...just don't change any angles.
    I like to polish it where the screws holds it & the sear against the post,
    the LUBE or OIL lightly and replace...being careful again with the springs.

    Usually a simple clean & lube makes a trigger feel MUCH better :)
     

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