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Best gun lubricant?

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  • meek

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    Traditionally I've just used light oil, but I have been told that the 1911 works better and will last longer if you use grease on the slide rails and around the barrel where it meets the bushing.

    Tetra-Gun grease was recommended to me. I did find one article that said that this grease tends to seperate in the tube. It seems like if it would seperate in the tube, it would also seperate on the gun.

    Unfortunately I don't get the opportunity to fire my gun every day, but I do try to clean it after every opportunity I have to fire it. What would you recommend as the best lubricant for a gun that isn't necessarily fired that frequently?
     

    wildrider666

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    Below link will lead you to several lubricant topics:
    https://www.gulfcoastgunforum.com/search.php?searchid=3179190

    There's extreme cold weather and harsh dust/sand considerations but generally grease all slide rails and oil other mechanical friction points per user manual.

    There are other Threads in the Forum on this topic regarding lube use/type but in the end it a mixed bag with several choices available to you.
    Some are better preventing corrosion others less friction and some that advertise all kinds of promises. Some good vids showing long term corrosion resistance was great and suprising! Some major brands hot lube of the month did crappy. Some lube ads a bit of a scam.
     

    stage20

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    Springfield and sign send out a pack of Lucas with a new firearm. Not sure if they give it to you because it's good a deal recommended by them or Lucas tosses them product at a deal. Lol.
     

    FrommerStop

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    this thread got me on clp and I've been there since.

    I have used clp for the 1911 and after about 20 rounds or more of rapid fire it vaporized off the gun and the gun was essentially dry. These were some informal ipsc stages that a club I used to belong to would stage. You really want some sort of grease on the side and barrel in my experience. I little bit of detergent light wt motor would have likely been better since it will take a little bit of heat.
     

    SAWMAN

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    I have been using Tetra Gun products for quite some time now. I have a small tube if grease that has been on my bench for 15 years now.
    I apply it to the small parts bearing surfaces,usually with a toothpick or cotton swab. It goes on all my AR hammer and trigger pins after being buffed to a high gloss. I also use Reel Lube. It also comes in a very small tube and is designed for the internal parts of fishing reels. Penn used to indorse it years ago.
    For the general lube thing,I use Break Free CLP. I used it in the military and have stuck with it. --- SAWMAN
     

    meek

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    Logic seems to state that if the oil is thin enough to run, it will do so eventually. Sure there might be a very thin layer left behind, but is that really optimal? A grease might do a better job in the long run because it stays where you put it.

    I don't know if you've ever torn apart an engine, but if you ever get the opportunity, take a look at one that has run Mobil 1 all it's life vs. a conventional oil. Sure the conventional oil engine might still run, but the Mobil 1 engine will show nearly zero wear.

    No reason not to figure out what is the best and use it.
     

    Blackhawk 5

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    My go to is Slip-200 EWL. It's been reliable for me through thousands of rounds and many matches.

    I've gone through Fireclean and Froglube, both which siezes up and jams my bolt shooting in below freezing temps. Most of the lubricants that you can get from Walmart evaporate quicker, due to shooting an SBR and suppressor a lot.
     

    wildrider666

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    This is a great read, whether you us CLP or another lube. The industrial war machine. Good enough but not really. Inadequate for decades. A health hazard from burn off exposure blown in your face. What temps are actually generated firing a M16/M4. CLP is only designed to function up to WHAT TEMP!? Military culture/exposure ingrained bias inspite of known engineering AND FIELD failure points. It also addresses oil verses grease.

    https://www.cherrybalmz.com/history-the-cold-war--clp

    I was a LSA (great stuff) military convert (directed) to CLP. Gov would only provide the BEST after testing, Right! No, they didn't. You have a choice.
     

    RackinRay

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    Not sure Frog Lube was around 12 years ago, but once I tried it I switched from Breakfree CLP to Frog Lube. Love the stuff, and the cleaning cloths make the garbage smell better when I clean guns!
     

    Snake-Eyes

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    Meek, why are you continuously copy-pasting questions from other forums in the past? You trying to rack up a post-count here for a big sale?

    Edit: nevermind. Looks like the Mods already took care of you... wtf.
     

    JWlineman

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    I left this thread open in case you fellars wanted to continue the "best lube" discussion.
    My go to is CLP break free and CLP cleaner, although I do like using Frog lube as it has worked well for me. I have about 2k rounds, without cleaning, on my primary AR bcg and it runs fine with a couple drops of CLP. But I don't clean my stuff nearly as much as I used to...or probably need to.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     

    wildrider666

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    Anybody rethinking their use of CLP after reading #10?

    It may work adequately in some lower cyclic rate/use firearms. Why change if CLP apparently works? I don't have much cause to do mag dumps now but that doesn't mean I won't have a need to later. When you have a gun "run dry" do you just think you didn't lube it enough and run it wetter (cure the symptom but not the problem) or that it had adequate lube quantity but it failed/burnt off? I might give my old bottle of LSA a "shake". Lol
     
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    Woogie Bear

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    I've been using Strike Hold for about 4 years now. Never had any issues with it and I have noticed its much easier to get the carbon off after some range time. Maybe I am not sending enough lead downrange but I never noticed any of my firearms going dry while on the firing line. I also use it on my tools and bikes that are outside or in the garage. Seems to keep the rust away.
     
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