Best place to buy wide body safe

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  • Pigman

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    I see sales every month on Cannon safes from either Academy or Tractor supply. And I know they price match against each other. Is there a better option locally? Thanks
     

    kendive

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    I see sales every month on Cannon safes from either Academy or Tractor supply. And I know they price match against each other. Is there a better option locally? Thanks

    The only thing you are gonna get locally is probably Liberty that is a step up from Cannon and such. I bought my Fort Knox from https://www.cesafes.com/ came on a truck they put it in the garage and the next day and safe company came out and installed it in the house. Very pleasant experience.

    This safe weighed 1800lbs empty. Lots of steel you get what you pay with safes.




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    bowfreak

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    I have a Canon wide body and am very happy with it. I was able to use a 10% off coupon onto of a sale price so I got it for $900 (normally $1200) from tractor supply
     
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    I got my 48 gun liberty fat boy jr at mikes on 29 on sale for 1300.00 and it has the door zip compartments included, I had to pick up though.
     

    mac the knife

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    BEFORE you buy call these guys for a Quote, I Priced them all locally and they beat them .They will deliver and set it up within certain miles ? I had to pay a little extra Miles. But LIBERTY Is a better quality safe. Check it out.

    Mike Ward's Liberty Safes - Mobile, AL
    961 W. 1-65 Service Road N
    Mobile, AL 36618
    877-479-9273 or 251-471-1137
    Showroom Hours: M-F 9am-5pm/Sat 9:30am-4:30pm
     

    John B.

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    I bought mine from Mike's (Liberty Fatboy Jr.), they gave me a great deal, and free delivery (on a Saturday to boot) and put it in the room. No complaints.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     

    FLT

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    With any home style safe it’s a must that it be bolted to the floor. That will make it just that much more difficult to pry open or cut in to. A friend bolted his down in the garage and then built a cabinet around it. Prying eyes looking in the garage will see a locked storage cabinet and not a gun safe. Stealth ,a gun safe and a good alarm system will go a long way toward preventing the theft of a mans valuables.
     

    SAWMAN

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    I do not have my 3 safes bolted to anything . . . except each other.
    They will not fit thru the doorway unless unbolted. They are the older Browning Pro Steel. --- SAWMAN
     

    FLT

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    That sounds like it would work pretty well to me, you just have to be different don’t you. :peace:
     

    Viking1204

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    I do not have my 3 safes bolted to anything . . . except each other.
    They will not fit thru the doorway unless unbolted. They are the older Browning Pro Steel. --- SAWMAN

    Did they have holes predrilled or did you do the drilling? If you did what did you use to drill through them, just curious!
     

    Jester896

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    Did they have holes predrilled or did you do the drilling? If you did what did you use to drill through them, just curious!

    the walls of the container are mild steel and can be drilled with a regular high speed bit.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Sorry sir,missed this.
    In my case I drilled two holes in the sides with a boron bit that I bought from a "speciality" hardware store.
    But Jester is right,the walls were softer than I anticipated.
    I used 1/2 inch bolts and some 2 inch (OD) washers. Obviously,my safes are not fire rated. --- SAWMAN
     

    John B.

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    A more likely scenario for most people rather than being burglarized, is their home catching on fire. Instead of drilling holes in your safe, compromising possible warranty and fire rating, lag bolt your safe to the floor. Most safes come pre drilled to do bolt it to the floor.

    30 minutes and a side grinder, and you can get in to 90% of safes out there, if you can flip them to reach the back wall, the thinnest wall. Either bolt it in a manner that you can not flip it, or put 1000lbs of ammo in it so you can't flip it.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     

    Jester896

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    all 5 sides of a safe are usually the same thickness. The door may be a different thickness. Where a safe is hard is between the dial/keypad and the lock inside. The majority of safe are attacked at the door.

    if you strike a match and light one corner of the house on fire....and watch it burn....how long will it burn? Your safe probably should be fire rated for 30 minutes longer than that.
     

    FLT

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    None of the home style safes are secure from a determined thief, but one of them bolted down or secured in some other manner and a good alarm system will defeat more than 99% of the attempts to get in them.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Just gotta ask - - -> How many times in the last couple of years have you heard about a home being broken into,and the (quality,well made) gun safe was opened and contents stolen ???
    The typical fire safe,one of the ones the weigh 1200lbs or so,the models that people whine about having to move,the ones that you cannot get upstairs,the ones that you actually gotta reinforce the floor before you set it down,if they are rated at ??? degrees for ?? minutes . . . what temp does the inside get to in 10 minutes,20 minutes,30 minutes,etc,etc. Do the safe manufacturers put that in their specs ??
    Me . . . I have an insurance "rider" policy on my guns and scopes. The entire weapon as you see it,with add-ons,rings,bases,speciality stock,etc. There is also a couple cans of powder stored in each safe.
    If my house burns,my guns are gone. They are replaced by a check from the insurance company.

    Bruce,if not too private,can you tell us how your insurance company handled the reimbursement for your lost firearms and associated equipment. --- SAWMAN
     

    Jester896

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    you have more leverage on the safe door when it is laying on its back. If it is anchored properly it will be hard to get it on its back. Gun safes are top heavy to a degree, it is easy to tip one over that isn't anchored. I have even seen some that are so heavy on the door the container tilts when the door swings open that aren't anchored. Hinge side is dead pinned, either by dead pins on the hinge side of exposed hinges or with the concealed hinge itself. If it it isn't don't buy it. It doesn't pay to attack the door. Sometimes corners are the best place to put them because it only leaves 1 side open to attack. Middle of the wall leaves 2 sides to attack discounting the top.

    Residential raised flooring is designed to hold 600 lbs in a 3' sq area without additional support. Second floor residential is designed to hold 300 lbs in a 3' sq area without additional support.

    If your container isn't lined most everything inside will be either water damaged (if the fire department puts it out), smoke damaged, melted, or melted on. Ammo in your safe in a fire while it might not come through the containers will act as a blender inside.

    I have 360 motion sensors in front of mine just in case a glass break or perimeter device fails.
     
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    SAWMAN

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    I have a long pice of channel iron on the floor that the front of all three safes sit on. This tilts the safes rearward at a slight angle. I can open all three doors without fear of tip over.
    I have additional motion sensors looking at the safes along with a door alarm to the room. --- SAWMAN
     

    Jester896

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    that sounds good...just watch your fingers with the door run :D
     
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