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My 80% lower "Mattel M16A1" build

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  • Daezee

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    I'll add to this thread as I progress with my "Mattel M16A1" (semi-auto) build. My goal is to end up with an AR that looks like what a Vietnam era Mattel M16A1 (that never existed) would have looked like. To that end, I'll need to find M16A1 looking parts if I can afford them. Got a line on a Colt bbl and triangular hand guards and have started looking for pistol grip and buttstock on the Internet.

    I suppose since a Mattel never existed, that might give me a little freedom in the build and to "make up" Mattel facts as needed. For example, a vintage upper might be lighter in shade than my new anodized dark lower...but then Mattel only made the lowers and used other contractor's uppers in the early part of their short lived contract to make M16A1's.

    My "Mattel" 80% lower arrived today along with a 5D Tactical jig and tool set. I'm having dinner with my son-in-law this evening, and we'll discuss the next step. I'm using his workshop, router, and drill. A friend gave me a plain 80% lower to practice on and a vise to hold the lower during the milling and drilling.

    The lettering looks sharper in person. I'm thinking of filling in the lettering with aluminum black since I'll be blackening the inside after milling and drilling.

    DSCN3391.JPG
     

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    Zeroed in

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    Mattel, who'd known? Seems to be a cool venture. Post the pics as it progresses. I'm interested in how it all comes out. g/l
     

    Daezee

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    DSCN3392.JPG DSCN3393.JPG

    The "practice" receiver is all bolted into the jig, ready to drill the one pilot hole needed for the router bit. Side view showing the steel bushings which guide the drill bits for the safety, trigger, and hammer pin holes (although this 80% already came with the safety hole drilled...new ones don't have that hole already drilled). The 80% is held in the jig by a pin going through the front takedown hole and by two pieces that attach to the buffer tube threads/rear of the 80% and bolt into the jig...there is no movement when tightened.

    The sides of the 80% don't touch the jig at all, which makes me wonder why the instructions say to put masking tape along the sides. Maybe that's to protect the sides in case you bump them into the jig when putting the 80% into place. Maybe it helps protect any anodizing when holes are drilled.

    Picked up a can of cutting oil at Harbor Freight (kendive found it for me there) to use. After watching videos on using this jig, I figured actual cutting oil might be more protective than WD-40. If anyone knows about using cutting oil when drilling and milling vs WD-40, please let me know. It appears cutting oil sticks better to metal and may last longer to keep the metal cool.

    I should start the drilling/milling later today.
     

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    Ric-san

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    Give JJ a call...I’m sure with all his experience with machine shop machines, he’d know...
     

    SAWMAN

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    Never use WD as a substitute for cutting oil or light machine oil.
    I have found that WD will "smoke" and loose it lube qualities during heavy cutting/milling during heat build up. --- SAWMAN
     

    reel_crazy

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    i am not a gunsmith but i have done some milling and lathe work on al.. generally most if not all (in my case) is done using a small spray bottle filled with wd 40,, and for milling i usually will spray with one hand and shop vac chips up with the other,,,what would concern me here is using a router running at 8+k rpms?... my mill only goes to 4k.. which for general machining is fine...although that speed is normally used with very small bits,,anyways i get pretty nice finish with the wd ... i would guess that the end mill is carbide which can handle high speeds and feeds.. you do want to constantly vacuum / blow the chips,,, then relube as needed... some folks use an atomized system that blows out the chips and lubes / cools the cutter..
    rich
     

    Daezee

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    Well, we are all gonna have to wait a bit longer. So, drilled the end mill pilot hole...a bit difficult with a hand drill to put much pressure on the drill bit due to the height of my setup; will use a drill press the next time. Went to set up the router...the end mill will not screw onto the router. Maybe get half a thread on and it stops. Made sure the threads on both parts were clean, neither looked buggered up, the router's collet goes on and off easily, but the end mill will not screw on.

    The router being used, DeWalt DWP611, is listed on the 5D Tactical web site as size "B" and as "#1 Recommended Router". The box the end mill bit came in is marked "B", but it will not fit...two of use tried. No markings on the part of the end mill that is supposed to screw onto the router. Will call 5D in the morning.
     
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    Daezee

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    i am not a gunsmith but i have done some milling and lathe work on al.. generally most if not all (in my case) is done using a small spray bottle filled with wd 40,, and for milling i usually will spray with one hand and shop vac chips up with the other,,,what would concern me here is using a router running at 8+k rpms?... my mill only goes to 4k.. which for general machining is fine...although that speed is normally used with very small bits,,anyways i get pretty nice finish with the wd ... i would guess that the end mill is carbide which can handle high speeds and feeds.. you do want to constantly vacuum / blow the chips,,, then relube as needed... some folks use an atomized system that blows out the chips and lubes / cools the cutter..
    rich


    The instructions say if using a variable speed router, set to the highest speed setting and to slowly nibble away at the receiver, avoiding excessive force, moving the router in a clockwise manner. My son in law hooked up a shop vac to constantly suck up chips, but will stop often and do more cleaning out of chips and relube.
     

    reel_crazy

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    it looks like a pretty well thought out system... you are only taking small amounts at a time. i would for sure take my time.. let me know if you dhould need anything. a drill press is definitely recommended.

    rich
     

    Daezee

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    5D Tactical feels the wrong end mill was put in the box, although I had ordered the right end mill. I am to return what was sent, they will reimburse postage and send another end mill and try it on the DeWalt router before shipping it.
     

    SAWMAN

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    Accurate rendition of Bruce with his new Mattel build. --- SAWMAN
     

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    Daezee

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    Thanks for posting the pic. It helps with my "correct" Mattel build. Note the duck bill flash hider and where the Mattel logo was on the buttstock. Also, the finish was very dark. Thanks
     

    Burnt Drag

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    How's the milling going, Daezee? I've heard of these router jigs... my 1st build was with a drill press and one of those milling vices from Harbor freight. It went "so so"... I had to do a lot of clean up work with a dremel and a milling bit I found at Wal mart. I showed the end product to my Dad...his reply was, "You need to do the next one on the milling machine at the shop." I told him I'd never operated one. He showed me the basics and I cranked the first one out in about 2 hours. The next one went much faster. The jig is getting a bit roughed up, but I can still make do. I've been having a good bit of fun... and have learned a good bit as well. I used silicone spray for cutting fluid.
     

    Daezee

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    Milling is currently at a standstill waiting on the correct mill bit. Although I ordered the correct bit, I was sent one that didn't fit the router. 5D received my bit back Thursday, boxed up the replacement Friday, and I'm awaiting shipment.

    Meanwhile I was offered for free either a repro early "duckbill" flash hider or a GI "pickle fork" flash hider from a fellow who wanted to help if either could be used. Duckbill matches that of the Mattel M16 Marauder. My daughter who makes and designs T shirts and stickers says she should be able to make a Mattel sticker for the side of the buttstock.

    I found that the serial number engraved on the 80% belongs among 60,000 M16's built for the Air Force in 1970, but who will know that unless they do some research.

    Found a nice dark/black USGI M16A1 upper w/pencil bbl from the 1970's at auction, but the bid price keeps going up and up...not cheap!
     

    B52

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    Milling is currently at a standstill waiting on the correct mill bit. Although I ordered the correct bit, I was sent one that didn't fit the router. 5D received my bit back Thursday, boxed up the replacement Friday, and I'm awaiting shipment.

    Meanwhile I was offered for free either a repro early "duckbill" flash hider or a GI "pickle fork" flash hider from a fellow who wanted to help if either could be used. Duckbill matches that of the Mattel M16 Marauder. My daughter who makes and designs T shirts and stickers says she should be able to make a Mattel sticker for the side of the buttstock.

    I found that the serial number engraved on the 80% belongs among 60,000 M16's built for the Air Force in 1970, but who will know that unless they do some research.

    Found a nice dark/black USGI M16A1 upper w/pencil bbl from the 1970's at auction, but the bid price keeps going up and up...not cheap!

    I wonder if it's the upper I am bidding for on GB? It has a butt stock
     

    B52

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    LOL I guess it's good that I asked..
     

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