Reccomdations on air rifle

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  • steve

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    I'm considering buying a 10m air rifle and was hoping some of the experts will give me their suggestions on which one to buy or if they know the best places to look at used ones. Or if someone has one here that they are considering selling...

    Thanks,
    Steve
     

    steve

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    I knew I could count on you! We need to get together one day and do some shooting!
    Thanks for the links and I'll definitely pick your brain after doing a bit of research.
    Thanks
     

    fv22

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    FPS ratings as advertised by manufacturers are usually overrated and always done with the lightest alloy pellets which don't shoot accurately. Besides that you don't want them shooting supersonic anyway as it does funky things to the trajectory of the light pellets.

    Most guns with a good brand medium to heavier pellet will shoot a few hundred fps less than the rating which is better for accuracy anyway. Many pellet guns are picky about what pellets they like, especially springer type guns so lots of testing is sometimes needed to find the right pellet for your particular gun. As an example if I use the Crossman Premier hollow points in my Benjamin Trail NP .22 I'm lucky if I can keep the groups under 2" at 25 yards. After testing I found the H&N FTT with the 5.54 head size can give most groups under 3/8" and often can put 3 or 4 shots in one hole. Not bad for a piston gun although not as good as a quality PCP.

    Would love to try a good 10M competition gun someday!
     

    kendive

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    FPS ratings as advertised by manufacturers are usually overrated and always done with the lightest alloy pellets which don't shoot accurately. Besides that you don't want them shooting supersonic anyway as it does funky things to the trajectory of the light pellets.

    Most guns with a good brand medium to heavier pellet will shoot a few hundred fps less than the rating which is better for accuracy anyway. Many pellet guns are picky about what pellets they like, especially springer type guns so lots of testing is sometimes needed to find the right pellet for your particular gun. As an example if I use the Crossman Premier hollow points in my Benjamin Trail NP .22 I'm lucky if I can keep the groups under 2" at 25 yards. After testing I found the H&N FTT with the 5.54 head size can give most groups under 3/8" and often can put 3 or 4 shots in one hole. Not bad for a piston gun although not as good as a quality PCP.

    Would love to try a good 10M competition gun someday!

    Very true... I can make any airgun shoot faster just put a lighter pellet and shoot it, but that is not always the best thing to do.

    It's all about Accuracy and Foot pounds of Energy at the target. I know we all know that. Those air guns that just advertise FPS is all crap. I like to see you hit at dime at 100 yards pushing that speed with a light pellet.
     

    kendive

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    I knew I could count on you! We need to get together one day and do some shooting!
    Thanks for the links and I'll definitely pick your brain after doing a bit of research.
    Thanks

    No problem and yes I would love to get together to shoot airguns.

    If you get a PCP you are gonna want to have your own way to fill. If you are just sticking with just one PCP gun and not get into the Big Bore stuff you could just get by with a pump. I started out like that with the Benjamin .22 P-Rod and the .25 Benjamin M-Rod

    I have two tanks from http://www.airtanksforsale.com/.

    I have the big great white 97 CF and the Guppy 18 cf. I also use the F10 Shoebox to fill them tanks to 4500 PSI. I use the little inline low pressure filters and then the high pressure filter to get very dry clean air in them bottles. Keeps your airguns clean.

    14wpx55.jpg


    358qedv.jpg


    One of the guy over at GTA figured all this out for my setup... Not that I was gonna worry about how much moisture I was removing. LOL

    ...
    Let's figure out how much water needs to be removed to fill an entire Great White (100 cubic feet, uncompressed)

    Assuming 22C (72F) and 50% RH in your work room. Use https://www.ready.noaa.gov/READYmoistcal.php
    and find that the air has 9.65 g/m3


    100ft³= 2.831685m³


    Total water content of the air needed to fill a Great White is.... 2.83 x 9.65 gm = 27.3 gm


    Our end point is almost zero water. So, that means we need to condense or absorb about 27 ml water in the system to deliver really dry air.


    Molecular sieve saturation curve has its knee at 30% RH. That corresponds to 20 gm H20/ 100 gm molecular sieve.


    Without condensation and mechanical separation, one would use up just over 100 gm of molecular sieve / full fill of a GW.


    We can assume some condensation separation in the 1st stage compressor's tank. So, the total water mass is a bit less than that. Let's guess 1/2 is removed there. You can confirm by reporting that water is drained from your main compressor tank.


    That leaves your interstage filter needing to soak up just half as much water. I would change the interstage molecular sieve 50 gm/ fill of the GW. That would present the lowest load to the more pricey cartridge in the JB high pressure filter.
     
    Last edited:

    fv22

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    No problem and yes I would love to get together to shoot airguns.

    If you get a PCP you are gonna want to have your own way to fill. If you are just sticking with just one PCP gun and not get into the Big Bore stuff you could just get by with a pump. I started out like that with the Benjamin .22 P-Rod and the .25 Benjamin M-Rod

    I have two tanks from http://www.airtanksforsale.com/.

    I have the big great white 97 CF and the Guppy 18 cf. I also use the F10 Shoebox to fill them tanks to 4500 PSI. I use the little inline low pressure filters and then the high pressure filter to get very dry clean air in them bottles. Keeps your airguns clean.

    14wpx55.jpg


    358qedv.jpg


    One of the guy over at GTA figured all this out for my setup... Not that I was gonna worry about how much moisture I was removing. LOL

    ...
    Let's figure out how much water needs to be removed to fill an entire Great White (100 cubic feet, uncompressed)

    Assuming 22C (72F) and 50% RH in your work room. Use https://www.ready.noaa.gov/READYmoistcal.php
    and find that the air has 9.65 g/m3


    100ft³= 2.831685m³


    Total water content of the air needed to fill a Great White is.... 2.83 x 9.65 gm = 27.3 gm


    Our end point is almost zero water. So, that means we need to condense or absorb about 27 ml water in the system to deliver really dry air.


    Molecular sieve saturation curve has its knee at 30% RH. That corresponds to 20 gm H20/ 100 gm molecular sieve.


    Without condensation and mechanical separation, one would use up just over 100 gm of molecular sieve / full fill of a GW.


    We can assume some condensation separation in the 1st stage compressor's tank. So, the total water mass is a bit less than that. Let's guess 1/2 is removed there. You can confirm by reporting that water is drained from your main compressor tank.


    That leaves your interstage filter needing to soak up just half as much water. I would change the interstage molecular sieve 50 gm/ fill of the GW. That would present the lowest load to the more pricey cartridge in the JB high pressure filter.


    I was planning to move up to PCP this year but reading this gave me a headache! Anything beyond basic math was never my strong suit. Think I'll be staying with my springer! One pump, aim, shoot, NO MATH, sounds better to me now than it did before. Thought you just got a rifle, pumped it up (hand or electric pump) and shot, didn't realize there were so many calculations involved... Would still like to try though!
     

    kendive

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    I was planning to move up to PCP this year but reading this gave me a headache! Anything beyond basic math was never my strong suit. Think I'll be staying with my springer! One pump, aim, shoot, NO MATH, sounds better to me now than it did before. Thought you just got a rifle, pumped it up (hand or electric pump) and shot, didn't realize there were so many calculations involved... Would still like to try though!

    You don't need math for using the PCP. Just fill and go... LOL

    That was all just someone playing around and figuring out how much moisture I can remove with my setup...






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