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Gun Safe dehumidifiers
- Thread starter Seanpcola
- Start date
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Seanpcola
Moderator
Nothing at HD. It was pouring so I didn't mess with going to any of the outdoor places. Picked this one up at Tractor Supply. I'll see how it does.
https://www.stack-on.com/categories/accessories/products/83
https://www.stack-on.com/categories/accessories/products/83
fishingjean
Master
I ordered one off eBay , it last for several months then you charge it overnight an good to go again !!!!!!!!!
Capt. Dave
Marksman
I've got a couple of those Sean, they work pretty good. I keep them in pelican cases and last two months between recharge.
Just remember to check them regularly. They're cheap, so you can get a couple of them & dry one out overnight while one or two more are in the safe working. My safe is in a moisture rich environment, so I always keep a couple in there.
wildrider666
Master
https://www.walmart.com/ip/15033112...75035&wl11=online&wl12=15033112&wl13=&veh=sem
I use DampRid. You buy refills to top it off as needed. No cords. No batteries. No drying. Just "pour" out water from bottom catch container. This will pull and hold more water/humidity from your safe. I look at it like this: if your drying elements or filters thatare not dripping, are you really getting all the moisture? I pour out 2+- cups of water from it a month.
The basic unit ($3) comes with container, strainer and damprid flakes. Refill bag is about $9. Dump flakes in strainer, strainer in containerput it in safe without lid. Lid on "new" style container has holes so you may want use it.
I modified mine by punching holes in the bottom of the container and placing that in a larger container. Don't bother cleaning out old damp flakes, just add more on top. Do clean the crystals that will form on the bottom of the water catch container.
Used this for 30+ years no rust! I also use RigRag on the firearms.
For folks using something else, spend $3 and put one in with your other units and see what happens.
I use DampRid. You buy refills to top it off as needed. No cords. No batteries. No drying. Just "pour" out water from bottom catch container. This will pull and hold more water/humidity from your safe. I look at it like this: if your drying elements or filters thatare not dripping, are you really getting all the moisture? I pour out 2+- cups of water from it a month.
The basic unit ($3) comes with container, strainer and damprid flakes. Refill bag is about $9. Dump flakes in strainer, strainer in containerput it in safe without lid. Lid on "new" style container has holes so you may want use it.
I modified mine by punching holes in the bottom of the container and placing that in a larger container. Don't bother cleaning out old damp flakes, just add more on top. Do clean the crystals that will form on the bottom of the water catch container.
Used this for 30+ years no rust! I also use RigRag on the firearms.
For folks using something else, spend $3 and put one in with your other units and see what happens.
Last edited:
wildrider666
Master
One per Safe works great. I put it on the floor behind scoped long guns as I don't have much dead space.
As advertised it traps the water in the lower container. It will continue to draw moisture until the flakes are covered with water (this was way too long between checking it). The bigger catch container the longer you can go between emptying it. The strainer has slits on the side too. If you change catch containers the slits must be below the rim or water will run down the side. This is why I punched holes in the bottom of the orig catch container and placed the whole thing into a larger "catch". Wet flakes look like glaze donut frosting, again just refill right on top of it. The degraded residue is the crystals that form like ice in the bottom.
I guess a curious person could weigh both units dry then again in a few weeks to see which draws more water.
As advertised it traps the water in the lower container. It will continue to draw moisture until the flakes are covered with water (this was way too long between checking it). The bigger catch container the longer you can go between emptying it. The strainer has slits on the side too. If you change catch containers the slits must be below the rim or water will run down the side. This is why I punched holes in the bottom of the orig catch container and placed the whole thing into a larger "catch". Wet flakes look like glaze donut frosting, again just refill right on top of it. The degraded residue is the crystals that form like ice in the bottom.
I guess a curious person could weigh both units dry then again in a few weeks to see which draws more water.
Seanpcola
Moderator
Yep, it's in the house but I just figured I would be extra cautious. Didn't figure it would hurt to have the extra protection.
my man-cave is climate controlled with humidity monitors that will record max humidity encountered.
i have several vaults and handloading equipment and none need any dehumidifiers.
i have heard where dehumidifiers can pull humidity through walls, doors and windows.
if thats true, there pulling it into storage areas where there installed.... maybe not, i dont know...just what i have heard.
maybe everyone is FOS even me !!!
lane:
i have several vaults and handloading equipment and none need any dehumidifiers.
i have heard where dehumidifiers can pull humidity through walls, doors and windows.
if thats true, there pulling it into storage areas where there installed.... maybe not, i dont know...just what i have heard.
maybe everyone is FOS even me !!!
lane:
Last edited:
wildrider666
Master
A bit of Thread overlap. I keep the house @74°. I have to use dehumidifier in the gun safe but have to constantly add water to my cigar humidor. WTF?
Seanpcola
Moderator
I haven't seen any reason to think I have a humidity problem and my AC systems in the house are mini splits. Te condensation lines pour like a garden hose all summer. Just being overly cautious.
wildrider666
Master
A "dehumidifier" that circulates air may have potential to move/draw moisture laden air. I think in an enclosed but not air tight container like a safe, air flow is about zero except when you open the door. When you close it again the moisture laden air must be dried again.
Even if we monitor the humidity we must ask at what level is there enough moisture to cause rust/corrosion of unprotected metals? I think if you register any humidity there is potential for rust. Air contains trace water, about 0.017mL per liter of air +- depending on humidity. We must control this by either eliminating the water molecules to the point the won't bind together or draw them together and trap the moisture for removal.
Even if we monitor the humidity we must ask at what level is there enough moisture to cause rust/corrosion of unprotected metals? I think if you register any humidity there is potential for rust. Air contains trace water, about 0.017mL per liter of air +- depending on humidity. We must control this by either eliminating the water molecules to the point the won't bind together or draw them together and trap the moisture for removal.
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